tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33189978696610784532024-03-05T16:21:05.173+01:00That Purple DressMariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-31669708995221946982015-01-31T18:59:00.000+01:002015-01-31T18:59:32.415+01:00New 1885 bustleI had to make a new bustle for my victorian stuff, because I gave my old one to a friend. I used the Mantua Maker pattern again and tried to fix some issues the old bustle had, but it only resulted in more issues. Oh well. It still does what it's supposed to do. I probably won't use the pattern again though. I'm not sure how accurate it really is, the pattern pieces look odd and the whole thing feels wrong somehow. But then I'm by no means an expert. Anyway, it works and that's the important thing.<br />
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This is also my item for the first challenge of the Historical Sew Monthly 2015, yay! :)<br />
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The Challenge: No. 1: Foundations<br />
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Fabric: sturdy charcoal cotton<br />
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Pattern: The Mantua-Maker 1880s Bustle<br />
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Year: ca 1885<br />
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Notions: black poly thread, steel boning, tape<br />
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How historically accurate is it? Fabric type and colour are pretty accurate, it's machine sewn but that's alright for the 1880s. As mentioned above I'm not sure about the pattern though.<br />
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Hours to complete: I never track these things. 6-8 hours, I guess.<br />
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First worn: to a Victorian LARP on Jan 24th 2015<br />
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Total cost: no idea, everything came from stash.<br />
<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-81597536748266642842014-12-25T20:36:00.001+01:002014-12-25T21:18:26.513+01:00My favourites from the HSF '14 - part oneThis year, I only finished 2 items of the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly-2014/" target="_blank">Historical Sew Fortnightly '14</a> in time (<a href="http://thatpurpledress.blogspot.co.at/2014/01/hsf-14-kickoff-challenge.html" target="_blank">#1</a> and <a href="http://thatpurpledress.blogspot.co.at/2014/05/hsf-14-challenge-9-black-and-white.html" target="_blank">#9</a>), and a third one too late (<a href="http://thatpurpledress.blogspot.co.at/2014/05/a-robe-de-style-inspired-by-jeanne.html" target="_blank">#2</a>). I guess the 2-weeks timeframe was too tight for me, and besides that I also had a rather stressful year and not nearly enough time for sewing.<br />
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However, I followed the progress of the other participants closely via the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/HistoricalSewFortnightly/" target="_blank">facebook group</a>, and since acknowledging the work of others is essential to make a group stronger and more connected (which is one of the goals of the HSF challenges), I decided to make a list of my own favourites of the past year.<br />
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<h3>
Challenge #1 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/10/hsf-14-how-its-going-to-work-challenge-1/" target="_blank">Make Do and Mend</a></h3>
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I totally fell in love with <a href="http://kostiumiglanitka.blogspot.co.at/2014/01/projekt-mufka-i-hsf-challenge-1-make-do.html" target="_blank">Ela's wonderful redingote</a> in dark grey poly silk (which seems to be of superb quality because it looks like real silk), matching hat and muff. They needed some mending and she also newly decorated the hat. I just adore the color combination of light pink for the skirt and dark grey for the redingote. I love everything about this outfit.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoihMCrki64/UtwwNgg_RyI/AAAAAAAAEKY/RUjhF2dO4dE/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoihMCrki64/UtwwNgg_RyI/AAAAAAAAEKY/RUjhF2dO4dE/s1600/2.jpg" height="320" width="147" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doesn't she look regal?</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra_Eg5qikbs/UtwwnQch7GI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/wY6lmMihlqc/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra_Eg5qikbs/UtwwnQch7GI/AAAAAAAAEKQ/wY6lmMihlqc/s1600/3.jpg" height="320" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can never decide if redingotes look the best from the front or from the back.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #2 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/10/hsf-14-challenge-2-innovation/" target="_blank">Innovation</a></h3>
For the Innovation challenge, Carol did the most amazing thing: she crocheted a 1920s evening cape with a Tutanchamun-inspired design. Unfortunately, she didn't give a link to a blog post, so I'll just share what she writes about it <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201233081730795&set=oa.274986192652057&type=3&theater" target="_blank">on facebook</a>:<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
HSF 2014 #2 Innovation<br />
Luster Sheen Acrylic Yarn<br />
November 1922 Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon discovered the riches of Tutankhamen's tomb. Images of the treasures inspired the worlds of fashion and design: TUTMANIA of the mid-1920's.<br />
I decided to crochet an evening cape with a Tut-inspired design. No pattern, I started at the neckline and let the garment grow, paying close attention to the amount of yarn I had in my stash.<br />
Notions: Took an Egyptian-inspired costume necklace and used the 28-turquoise beads on each of the 28-points at the bottom of the garment. Not planned, it just worked out that way.<br />
Only accurate in theme, not materials. Have worked on it almost every night of January so far - just finished and photographed this evening.<br />
No cost - all stash - and I used every last bit of this yarn that I had!</blockquote>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1557475_10201233081730795_556202833_n.jpg?oh=b31809d397aa0f3df7200449225f7471&oe=55067643&__gda__=1430542744_def1ecad250eff2f63682c783e292c69" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1557475_10201233081730795_556202833_n.jpg?oh=b31809d397aa0f3df7200449225f7471&oe=55067643&__gda__=1430542744_def1ecad250eff2f63682c783e292c69" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a creative idea!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/999234_10201233080970776_891303775_n.jpg?oh=bae4cb6e54588303e1c34998365a0efa&oe=5547460A&__gda__=1429477358_cf325852ab46ba9cc7bcae31a2ac2fba" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/999234_10201233080970776_891303775_n.jpg?oh=bae4cb6e54588303e1c34998365a0efa&oe=5547460A&__gda__=1429477358_cf325852ab46ba9cc7bcae31a2ac2fba" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She even added a scarab beetle pendant as a brooch!</td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #3 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/11/historical-sew-fortnightly-14-challenge-3-pink/" target="_blank">Pink</a></h3>
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For this challenge, <a href="http://beauty4ashes7.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">Gina</a> made a<a href="http://beauty4ashes7.blogspot.co.at/2014/02/hsf-3-pink-1912-day-dress.html" target="_blank"> lovely 1912 ensemble</a> from dusty pink faux dupioni silk. She based it on a 1912 fashion plate and added an antique chemisette and a wonderful hat to complete the outfit.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4onxu0Ar8efAUBKpntXx0hIFyeEuXzjWFGxgsOgSDdlNER10yidiqBIWevlnz5PzL7PsEsr-V3K43_NS7GxiMFZqI7yOAtRuqP9hue_FUaSuSBJgEygA6TcExDxcbGGwbvXpuNjLeXOxq/s1600/pink+a.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4onxu0Ar8efAUBKpntXx0hIFyeEuXzjWFGxgsOgSDdlNER10yidiqBIWevlnz5PzL7PsEsr-V3K43_NS7GxiMFZqI7yOAtRuqP9hue_FUaSuSBJgEygA6TcExDxcbGGwbvXpuNjLeXOxq/s1600/pink+a.PNG" height="320" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The colour of the dress is to-die-for! </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqR7pBGmw5nZEPXKwBJqG8pdH3rPH1koPOSrlieBm7yg7sDVYnyR88-TzjgPRPk5sfbE6pRwoH1fQn2ehgDfWQ69EbM59cJ95cnveU-jOY6xisRd5F2ZkyCE0EX2eLmHE05JRLBc6mC_Kx/s1600/unnamed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqR7pBGmw5nZEPXKwBJqG8pdH3rPH1koPOSrlieBm7yg7sDVYnyR88-TzjgPRPk5sfbE6pRwoH1fQn2ehgDfWQ69EbM59cJ95cnveU-jOY6xisRd5F2ZkyCE0EX2eLmHE05JRLBc6mC_Kx/s1600/unnamed.jpg" height="320" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The antique lace chemisette goes perfectly with the dress! </td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #4 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/11/historical-sew-fortnightly-14-challenge-4-under-it-all/" target="_blank">Under It All</a></h3>
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There were a lot of possible favourites in this challenge. I eventually chose <a href="http://andrea-hakansson.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">Andrea's</a> completely hand-sewn <a href="http://andrea-hakansson.blogspot.co.at/2014/01/badsark-bathing-shift.html" target="_blank">14th century bathing shift</a> as my personal winner, because it is a rather unusual garment and you don't see it every day in your costume blogs. She cleverly made the shift out of unbleached linen, as white becomes transparent when wet. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8nET9qxAwduGg9lwsvUgQp_LdQ05tZ7-TTn4enkZ2upJJrgshpxdZFreztaZN7hXGtC6X8wzigBSOmKoC-vxiWMXh0WooCn10XV76Pr4sxj_7eKcNzqrqr6-YN_rKvAGLZ2eTpUOjpwX/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8nET9qxAwduGg9lwsvUgQp_LdQ05tZ7-TTn4enkZ2upJJrgshpxdZFreztaZN7hXGtC6X8wzigBSOmKoC-vxiWMXh0WooCn10XV76Pr4sxj_7eKcNzqrqr6-YN_rKvAGLZ2eTpUOjpwX/s1600/1.jpg" height="320" width="122" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple, but very pretty. It could even pass as a modern summer dress! </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8B00dqVXKfL0d4DkS4DgJCQn9hNNPUdmCHSP2tV3V5XaQ8k3Wjyou2Bj1NcpDms1osnpg05QR1F1o-F2k34lk3Uwuc4ewQmm7AXzxntWB9VMbZfl9B5RU6MMrKkRyzfbEt24SSgTFBWY/s1600/bads%C3%A4rk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8B00dqVXKfL0d4DkS4DgJCQn9hNNPUdmCHSP2tV3V5XaQ8k3Wjyou2Bj1NcpDms1osnpg05QR1F1o-F2k34lk3Uwuc4ewQmm7AXzxntWB9VMbZfl9B5RU6MMrKkRyzfbEt24SSgTFBWY/s1600/bads%C3%A4rk.jpg" height="197" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the illustriations that inspired Andrea's garment</td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #5 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/12/hsf-14-challenge-5-bodice/" target="_blank">Bodice</a></h3>
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<a href="http://boyerfamilysingers.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">Brigid</a> made a <a href="http://boyerfamilysingers.blogspot.co.at/2014/03/hsf-bodice-1940s-atomic-blouse.html" target="_blank">1940s blouse</a> out of crinkled rayon fabric that is printed with an original 1940s pattern. It seems the fabric has been made exactly for this kind of blouse. I think Brigid also made the perfect choice in pairing it with the red skirt and the red shoes. The whole outfit looks so alive and vibrant. I love it. :)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/13168284253_895171a05f_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/13168284253_895171a05f_o.png" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the oversized shoulders! </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3720/13168189455_3f104bb998_o.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3720/13168189455_3f104bb998_o.png" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of the back</td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #6 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/12/the-hsf-14-challenge-6-fairytale/" target="_blank">Fairytale</a></h3>
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For the fairytale challenge, my personal favourite has to be <a href="http://talonsaiguillesetvieillesdentelles.blogspot.fr/" target="_blank">Ségolène's</a> <a href="http://talonsaiguillesetvieillesdentelles.blogspot.fr/2014/03/le-printemps-de-mucha.html" target="_blank">Mucha-inspired corset</a> based on postcards and pictures of fairies and nymphs in the edwardian era. The colours are gorgeous, and she put a lot of work in it adding all the precious little flowers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jV159z4cyoh7oMDJlbaqSnCd-Eq47_nHB4Es2v8zcOuugiMHIclemn9GEzc4nb-AbH4d3R4f-KKb0rtwQnBdQTo880mz3G2eU3M6Uu4qrsZLub2n_JcSy68qfGniS12NpCvnrz0iet0/s1600/Selection1+(8)_modifi%C3%A9-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jV159z4cyoh7oMDJlbaqSnCd-Eq47_nHB4Es2v8zcOuugiMHIclemn9GEzc4nb-AbH4d3R4f-KKb0rtwQnBdQTo880mz3G2eU3M6Uu4qrsZLub2n_JcSy68qfGniS12NpCvnrz0iet0/s1600/Selection1+(8)_modifi%C3%A9-1.jpg" height="320" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These colours... <3</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYErnEJBfucfwVEx8b4irOldHf_KFqLoETJlyEPaFXZ3rhv3nxwtT0j2Ic3PHKFIYBSyZAFZmfFQLaTQzyf5kAqi_i5VJq2mmFD5C8VXAO8XgVFlXPpLjG_d0UY9D84m0yzcN6g5tlTDE/s1600/Selection1+(12)_modifi%C3%A9-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYErnEJBfucfwVEx8b4irOldHf_KFqLoETJlyEPaFXZ3rhv3nxwtT0j2Ic3PHKFIYBSyZAFZmfFQLaTQzyf5kAqi_i5VJq2mmFD5C8VXAO8XgVFlXPpLjG_d0UY9D84m0yzcN6g5tlTDE/s1600/Selection1+(12)_modifi%C3%A9-1.jpg" height="320" width="204" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Combining Mucha and edwardian depictions of fairies, I think Ségolène nailed this challenge! </td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #7 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/01/the-hsf-14-challenge-7-tops-and-toes/" target="_blank">Tops and Toes</a></h3>
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There are so many awesomes costumers all around the world, and the main reason the HSF is such a great invention is that it brings them all together. How else would I ever had the chance to learn about <a href="https://www.facebook.com/wickedstepmothers" target="_blank">Marna</a>, who made her own <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.852715464745075.1073741837.144331535583475&type=1" target="_blank">late 19th/early 20th century style tango boots</a>! Boots! Late 19th/early 20th century! Made her own! And she's not even a professional shoemaker, but the result sure looks like she was one.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1888545_855753821107906_4999577714157772530_n.jpg?oh=d08b4bf58996f8d112bdfdc52eea5e8e&oe=554413B6&__gda__=1429591597_2281e4b1dd0d85d5638b4eaa457e4189" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1888545_855753821107906_4999577714157772530_n.jpg?oh=d08b4bf58996f8d112bdfdc52eea5e8e&oe=554413B6&__gda__=1429591597_2281e4b1dd0d85d5638b4eaa457e4189" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you believe it? How gorgeous are these boots!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10259717_854848541198434_1922406230677747862_n.jpg?oh=65e180df7caf46e72274c549ad623eb0&oe=5534C310&__gda__=1430154956_fc9d5c140c8cfe3c7f1ef8e7a57dfe5b" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10259717_854848541198434_1922406230677747862_n.jpg?oh=65e180df7caf46e72274c549ad623eb0&oe=5534C310&__gda__=1430154956_fc9d5c140c8cfe3c7f1ef8e7a57dfe5b" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She documented the whole process in pictures. </td></tr>
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Challenge #8 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/01/the-hsf-14-challenge-8-ufos-phds/" target="_blank">UFOs and PHDs</a></h3>
Quoting <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">Leimomi</a>, "In sewing parlance, a UFO is an Un-Finished Project, and a PHD is a Project Half Done.". So this challenge was all about finishing something that has been started and then neglected for too long.<br />
For this challenge, <a href="http://costumesbyophelia.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">Ophelia</a> finished the skirts and hat for her beautiful <a href="http://costumesbyophelia.blogspot.co.at/2014/04/finished-1880s-gown.html" target="_blank">1880s gown</a> that she started a few months before and then didn't continue due to lack of motivation. Luckily, this challenge came along just right in time and finally gave her the perfect excuse to finish the outfit.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHWghWDLpviGQ_gM_ShpJXNP5VXxKE5bVqXBh6Dk8pnIAXu4aU3SIy09eJdDG7yJA1FaiucM4B8hY1FYkVXeCEnFTDTft3oUty46zEUjY-6Gi9TbUL5vaih7JSgyxUV2xete1rMbkqJde/s1600/IMG_2340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwHWghWDLpviGQ_gM_ShpJXNP5VXxKE5bVqXBh6Dk8pnIAXu4aU3SIy09eJdDG7yJA1FaiucM4B8hY1FYkVXeCEnFTDTft3oUty46zEUjY-6Gi9TbUL5vaih7JSgyxUV2xete1rMbkqJde/s1600/IMG_2340.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love the combination of the two fabrics that Ophelia used for this gown.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNdnH_LUDINEuKb1zQV_H_Wqi9GCtQ_UTnkgXcQoTqt9CmF8iXxl1ZYO4PHRBIhhTt6KF7Gifeg7aWWp_D3VnlRCsa_pa1CxcMAuN_0DJ-QTavlKqvGV6zst3-FnxJ3XmZNsZQ0zBM1Sf/s1600/IMG_2379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNdnH_LUDINEuKb1zQV_H_Wqi9GCtQ_UTnkgXcQoTqt9CmF8iXxl1ZYO4PHRBIhhTt6KF7Gifeg7aWWp_D3VnlRCsa_pa1CxcMAuN_0DJ-QTavlKqvGV6zst3-FnxJ3XmZNsZQ0zBM1Sf/s1600/IMG_2379.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This picture! *swoon* Looks like it was right out of a period movie! </td></tr>
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Challenge #9 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/02/the-hsf-14-challenge-9-black-white/" target="_blank">Black and White</a></h3>
My favourite from this challenge is Jeanette's lovely black 1880s Victorian corset with white details, made of coutil and silk dupioni. She writes that initially she was a bit afraid of making her own corset, but then found and signed up for an online corsetmaking class which gave her the assistance she needed to finally try making a corset. And look how wonderful her corset turned out eventually!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIQ5FkiUqlFdfBZDmb4vqXof3Jm8xWcsEi6TORBYijgbLUUkUR3IaxTw7kTvUNhzi7Jp0Fa8TYvdlKYDclV3_reZ0Z2pROSsCv5WmykVmYy3Hg_5kQzb9jCtXgSDdmaDPCvhmSwN4Vuqn/s1600/HPIM8304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicIQ5FkiUqlFdfBZDmb4vqXof3Jm8xWcsEi6TORBYijgbLUUkUR3IaxTw7kTvUNhzi7Jp0Fa8TYvdlKYDclV3_reZ0Z2pROSsCv5WmykVmYy3Hg_5kQzb9jCtXgSDdmaDPCvhmSwN4Vuqn/s1600/HPIM8304.JPG" height="320" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like the unobtrusive yet eye-catching trim.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0XsNmMzXnAYjm9ITocLsksKj9jmVTl5S9iHlG-IGzpZqD0sDwTgJxjdXSItdwcmQR8l9xxxS973eDekHLZlJk_GAXk0zzg2MJEDCCXSQlZF3bLHAF2R_nCFUtuX2Tc7PH1xplYQMFhuf/s1600/HPIM8327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0XsNmMzXnAYjm9ITocLsksKj9jmVTl5S9iHlG-IGzpZqD0sDwTgJxjdXSItdwcmQR8l9xxxS973eDekHLZlJk_GAXk0zzg2MJEDCCXSQlZF3bLHAF2R_nCFUtuX2Tc7PH1xplYQMFhuf/s1600/HPIM8327.JPG" height="320" width="249" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impeccable!</td></tr>
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<h3>
Challenge #10 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/03/the-hsf-14-challenge-10-art/" target="_blank">Art</a></h3>
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For the tenth challenge, participants were supposed to draw inspiration from a work of art. This time, the challengers produced an extraordinarily large number of awesome garments, but my favourite was Ette's adorable dancing costume based on a picture of a ballet dancer by Pierre Carrier-Belleuse.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.parvasedapta.ch/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/fb-936x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.parvasedapta.ch/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/fb-936x1024.jpg" height="320" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ette writes that she isn't even a dancer. I think she should start right away, don't you think? :) </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.parvasedapta.ch/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/DSC_1832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.parvasedapta.ch/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/DSC_1832.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice detail</td></tr>
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Challenge #11 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/03/the-hsf-14-challenge-11-the-politics-of-fashion/" target="_blank">The politics of fashion</a></h3>
When Leimomi first announced this challenge, I thought it was a rather tricky one! Still, as always the challengers came up with a lot of smart ideas. <a href="https://knotrune.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Annette</a> did an especially clever interpretation of the politics-theme. She made a cute <a href="https://knotrune.wordpress.com/2014/06/17/hsf-11-the-politics-of-fashion-1920s-swimsuit/" target="_blank">skirt for her 1920s swimsuit</a>, as there actually used to be laws on some beaches about how much leg you were allowed to expose!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://knotrune.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/skirt-swimsuit.jpg?w=225&h=506" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://knotrune.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/skirt-swimsuit.jpg?w=225&h=506" width="142" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The colour looks lovely on Annette! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i0.wp.com/lcweb2.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3b40000/3b45000/3b45800/3b45864r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://i0.wp.com/lcweb2.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3b40000/3b45000/3b45800/3b45864r.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An officer measuring the amount of exposed leg - let's hope for the young lady she was within limits! ;)</td></tr>
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Challenge #12 - <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/04/the-hsf-14-challenge-12-shape-and-support/" target="_blank">Shape and support</a></h3>
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For the twelfth challenge, Britta made an impressively gorgeous pair of 1740s-1760s stays. She stitched all of the numerous boning channels by hand and used real leather for the binding. Great work!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZYn0EG2urM9CmZdF2M1f2iwFdI1nZPhUwqttstLNG6BCpBRtUdE2Uj7OED9qGkJTyC0KSGXIhdnVBjjk1-C-4lSQZqlyVSPoRmEYB3ZDzJBXi7qCxNja8_KsRW4tZEfVFHC1zud2cJQ/s1600/CIMG8174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ZYn0EG2urM9CmZdF2M1f2iwFdI1nZPhUwqttstLNG6BCpBRtUdE2Uj7OED9qGkJTyC0KSGXIhdnVBjjk1-C-4lSQZqlyVSPoRmEYB3ZDzJBXi7qCxNja8_KsRW4tZEfVFHC1zud2cJQ/s1600/CIMG8174.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a pair of impeccably made stays. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZigIX8T0tJhTfU05DuoaRGfDePTr7hFX6jfILfspZ9R27NhXa5QHKJuxoutXtL8-zHE1tcLZw_Dwj7YWA5jrlSWT0ZIAC7-X-FhQw2N-qtLTmosIF8f5Q7YvD_BO4al917i6d8klNeOk/s1600/CIMG8168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZigIX8T0tJhTfU05DuoaRGfDePTr7hFX6jfILfspZ9R27NhXa5QHKJuxoutXtL8-zHE1tcLZw_Dwj7YWA5jrlSWT0ZIAC7-X-FhQw2N-qtLTmosIF8f5Q7YvD_BO4al917i6d8klNeOk/s1600/CIMG8168.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super accurate stitching! </td></tr>
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-91874028937942010232014-12-20T01:05:00.001+01:002014-12-20T01:06:42.856+01:00A study in dusky pinkI made a corset. It has several issues, but hey. I made a corset! :)<br />
When I started it (ahem, that was maybe three years ago), proper research wasn't that much of a priority yet. So for some reason I decided to use totally unsuitable fabric as interlining. I guess this is the main reason for the crazy horizontal creasing, another being the pattern which I probably should have modified more. I used the Laughing Moon Dore pattern.<br />
The corset is made of cotton satin for the outer layer, fine linen for the lining, and some weirdly thick but too soft cotton for the interlining. <br />
I already wore the corset for a full day. Unfortunately it doesn't only look imperfect, it's also chafing my waist after a few hours. :( It's a pity because initially it feels very comfortable.<br />
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Anyway. I made a corset. :)<br />
I also took pictures:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZDybt4D9ZYRl1ILe55rChuJ36vdzgpjrnsQ3kixD_kmw02eH3W3yIagVwwRe3CteNsUvrvWmhdH9vtSzsfqNrln0dTtgljy5_pUpi62ajp_I-RmLLCbf5z-i0HCFPZZpXLAvx9PGsEA7/s1600/korsett3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZDybt4D9ZYRl1ILe55rChuJ36vdzgpjrnsQ3kixD_kmw02eH3W3yIagVwwRe3CteNsUvrvWmhdH9vtSzsfqNrln0dTtgljy5_pUpi62ajp_I-RmLLCbf5z-i0HCFPZZpXLAvx9PGsEA7/s1600/korsett3.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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The front. Don't you think it looks a bit like it was made for really droopy boobs? I have no idea why the pattern does that, and why I didn't notice it when making the muslin. It's extra funny because the upper edge is a bit too tight around the bust. </div>
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On plus side, I found a perfectly matching lace ribbon in my stash. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavpjMqGQXggUDF7lSuuIXjRSm5B4Rpm1KJOnwAQixNOjh-IGcoioFiDA89CLj4Jvlvm3hDnbcXuzSb-3LSfDp-PID_MAvIDqBir17HOdbF-DjFGUzIacBineqVI-3rrKrPk-IlbCIbU79/s1600/korsett4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavpjMqGQXggUDF7lSuuIXjRSm5B4Rpm1KJOnwAQixNOjh-IGcoioFiDA89CLj4Jvlvm3hDnbcXuzSb-3LSfDp-PID_MAvIDqBir17HOdbF-DjFGUzIacBineqVI-3rrKrPk-IlbCIbU79/s1600/korsett4.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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The back. I didn't have proper corset lace, so I put some white ribbon from stash into black tea dye. Strangely enough, it didn't come out yellow-ish like you would expect from tea dye, but light pink. Another perfect colour match.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz7TcyuKvWzp4UKefEgoxOWFl8Bi3UAMe19p7HCCaQGjj-j7_ljUBLohf4_7kcgQ4zzA-mPOApRa6lqsRksjgFTR5LLUJrQNpdkUnf9_7Tq3ZD_-KS8BwL6YULs137CwAetZWyQt-12B-y/s1600/korsett2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz7TcyuKvWzp4UKefEgoxOWFl8Bi3UAMe19p7HCCaQGjj-j7_ljUBLohf4_7kcgQ4zzA-mPOApRa6lqsRksjgFTR5LLUJrQNpdkUnf9_7Tq3ZD_-KS8BwL6YULs137CwAetZWyQt-12B-y/s1600/korsett2.jpg" height="640" width="520" /></a></div>
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Me wearing it. Really brings out the horizontal creases. (I took this picture before I added the lace ribbon).<br />
Of course there's also the much feared problem of gaping above and below the busk.<br />
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I'm pretty sure the chafing in the waist results from the unsuitable interlining fabric, which should be a lot stiffer.<br />
I still love the colour of the outer fabric and for a short time it is really comfortable to wear. I'll probably not use the pattern again, but instead try the Truly Victorian corset pattern for my next one. As always, I learned a lot while making this corset, and I'm looking forward to make the next one!<br />
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-84493953692584727992014-06-03T17:27:00.001+02:002014-06-03T17:31:07.240+02:00Thank you, Game of Thrones.<div style="text-align: left;">
Now I want to completely overthrow all my costuming plans for the next months, and instead make <a href="http://geekxgirls.com/article.php?ID=2455" target="_blank">this</a>! Arrgh!</div>
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Spoiler warning: While the link doesn't reveal anything regarding the plot, it does show a new costume that hasn't appeared before. It's worn during a very strong and surprising scene in the most recent episode, so you might want to watch for yourself instead of clicking the link.</div>
Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-60996217699410052012014-05-31T14:54:00.004+02:002014-05-31T14:56:11.227+02:001883 winter bustle dress - planningThis year I made the resolution to return to my roots and make at least one bustle dress. Bustle dresses are my costuming roots because I totally fell in love with them after I saw <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103874/" target="_blank">Francis Ford Coppola's Dracula</a> movie. I had to have one, and after a quick research revealed that there was absolutely no way I could afford having one made, I decided it would be time to start learning how to sew. That was in 2004 (hey, that's 10 years ago! Anniversary! Whee!).<br />
I didn't dive right into the subject but started with some easy stuff like skirts and bags, and stayed there for a while. My fascination for victorian fashion was rekindled a few years later when I went to Budapest, visited the Hungarian National Gallery and came across this painting of a lady dressed in a purple gown:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEmq5UZTqN236Nt_IPiHTMHbIw1ViQOuzLlLmTRY464fAlDcn1UeoxQWS1C0ItgOruDS2sHRAgZ-sT20mctzFqv4wrMM8pjsJHsw07LvkyZnNHxZa8n8oMxTE3JSTACJ1Sqcj08U0fJQ_/s1600/lila_ruhas_noe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFEmq5UZTqN236Nt_IPiHTMHbIw1ViQOuzLlLmTRY464fAlDcn1UeoxQWS1C0ItgOruDS2sHRAgZ-sT20mctzFqv4wrMM8pjsJHsw07LvkyZnNHxZa8n8oMxTE3JSTACJ1Sqcj08U0fJQ_/s1600/lila_ruhas_noe.jpg" height="320" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Lilaruhás nő" (Woman in a purple dress) by Szinyei Merse Pál, 1874 </td></tr>
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I love this dress so much I named this blog after it. :)<br />
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Anyway, because life in general and motivational problems in particular tend to get in the way of my sewing plans, I still didn't make a bustle dress until 2009, when I needed something to wear for my first historical ball. I literally had no idea what I was doing, and of course the gown was a mess and my mom had to sew me into the bodice so it would stay shut.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BQzvW99z0xWvrmpZU5aII8TtTUBP8DMb9c1RDcXxaxfOWEvPjGO8EEEI3IPOBvSxmjxiJ7oFhaZu67PuwzTruGBc9rzGMcV74k5XnY-Fg3vvZ4LqU7CXlbud0mqaEYDDFBDQnysTR-4Q/s1600/maria_mama-kleiner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BQzvW99z0xWvrmpZU5aII8TtTUBP8DMb9c1RDcXxaxfOWEvPjGO8EEEI3IPOBvSxmjxiJ7oFhaZu67PuwzTruGBc9rzGMcV74k5XnY-Fg3vvZ4LqU7CXlbud0mqaEYDDFBDQnysTR-4Q/s1600/maria_mama-kleiner.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mom in a surprisingly beautiful rental dress and I :) . <br />
The velvet part of my dress looks black but it's actually a rich shade of royal blue.</td></tr>
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I know it looks fine on the picture, but believe me, you wouldn't want to know how the bodice looked on closer inspection. Not to mention that it is actually far too small, and that I wanted a lot more trim on the dress.<br />
I disassembled the bodice right after the ball, and to my shame I have to admit that to this day I still haven't put it together again. That's another plan for this year, but there will be a separate blogpost.<br />
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Back to what this is actually about: plans for a new bustle dress. It's not going to be the purple dress, because I must use some of these ridiculous amounts of fabric I own before I can justify buying any new, and at the moment I couldn't afford it anyway.<br />
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So I decided to tackle another dress I've been admiring for some time, and I already have suitable fabric for it in my stash. It's the left one from this fashion plate from Illustrirte Frauen-Zeitung Nr. 22 from November 16th, 1883.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVsS47K8dlTPzypKSt39cOtcYR51VaQ3WLvec2HESpVfk6VGm-LU4ECmUXreS5Yxg_4LqBthlwvKIm697TdRDWfvYsAFwjH8vMag-AijXwVjzmaMfUrGMcghq8stfcnu-CEMXjnzpYkNp/s1600/1883-november.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVsS47K8dlTPzypKSt39cOtcYR51VaQ3WLvec2HESpVfk6VGm-LU4ECmUXreS5Yxg_4LqBthlwvKIm697TdRDWfvYsAFwjH8vMag-AijXwVjzmaMfUrGMcghq8stfcnu-CEMXjnzpYkNp/s1600/1883-november.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from <a href="http://www.laetacara.pytalhost.de/index.php">http://www.laetacara.pytalhost.de/</a></td></tr>
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I just love the combination of dark blue shades with white or cream (see my bustle ball gown). On the fashion plate it looks as there are even some grey and green hues in the blue. I was very lucky to find a suitably coloured wool mix fabric at a bargain price a few years ago, which was such a good deal I actually bought the whole bolt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4I4B2PeJemX6libJ0Ygn8xdzJkOw_TRk7xlcRjvEfDRgDhn7Gsk8Z6QBQ03pUh1_JgdEsgJRzCLXcUIdihCHrNo2WNptjdBmqf-aIeEvl6Riq3EY0cxKbDaiNdSAFqkB2fkLzHOJR9401/s1600/2014-05-31_dsc_0077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4I4B2PeJemX6libJ0Ygn8xdzJkOw_TRk7xlcRjvEfDRgDhn7Gsk8Z6QBQ03pUh1_JgdEsgJRzCLXcUIdihCHrNo2WNptjdBmqf-aIeEvl6Riq3EY0cxKbDaiNdSAFqkB2fkLzHOJR9401/s1600/2014-05-31_dsc_0077.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric and possible fur trim</td></tr>
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It has woven stripes, which in my opinion makes it even better, although the stripes are not that conspicuous when not photographed with flash.<br />
Below is some fake fur I might use for the fur trims. I'm still not sure if it looks too fake or if it is fine, but I decided not to worry about it prematurely.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHeLRgYpjuWOBWJGn48JMqhLDO2UJF2hkOrR9gmrr8pGxOThFXrJ9Y_FNwy55hzNKWLkvJt8MEuau_xHpRrCnv4PdUdL2Ovdo5RKiI61DLEnXth1U8-MpH-pqtuOSVYt3Xb5-xb3K_DoO/s1600/2014-05-31_dsc_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHeLRgYpjuWOBWJGn48JMqhLDO2UJF2hkOrR9gmrr8pGxOThFXrJ9Y_FNwy55hzNKWLkvJt8MEuau_xHpRrCnv4PdUdL2Ovdo5RKiI61DLEnXth1U8-MpH-pqtuOSVYt3Xb5-xb3K_DoO/s1600/2014-05-31_dsc_0079.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fake or fine?</td></tr>
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I'll start with Truly Victorian patterns 261 (underskirt) and 460 (bodice) and work my way from there.<br />
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-10859950049769499202014-05-18T23:15:00.002+02:002014-05-20T17:25:21.085+02:00Robe de style: some construction detailsI still have to get myself used to taking pictures during construction. I only have a few in-progress-pictures, but I took some of the details of the finished dress.<br />
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For the pattern, at first I tried to adapt some of the freely available ones (to be exact, <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/211669251211280003/" target="_blank">this one</a> and <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/211669251211280006/" target="_blank">this one</a>) but couldn't quite figure out how to get rid of the darts. So I made my own pattern. Usually I try to avoid this, but it turned out fine. After weeks of fiddling with the muslin I came up with this:<br />
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I also had a pattern piece for the little triangle that belongs in the neckline, but it went missing.<br />
I uploaded the pattern in maximum size, so if you'd like to use it just click the picture and a large version should appear. The cutting mat has an inch grid. <br />
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This is the dress on my dress form. I only included these pictures for the sake of completeness, it really looks a lot nicer when on a person. <br />
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The fastening. I totally copied this from Katherine from <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.co.at/2012/09/my-first-lanvin-robe-de-style-details.html" target="_blank">The Fashionable Past</a>. She mentioned that the snaps tend to come undone, so I added some hooks and eyes. However, my snaps still came undone, but I blame the cheap snaps I used. I will eventually change them to black ones anyway, and make sure they are top quality.<br />
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Detail of the neckline inset and the sari border. There are small pencil marks on the outside of the inset, because I sewed it in the wrong way around and then was in too much of a hurry to change it. Whoops. :P <br />
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The dress inside out. This picture illustrates quite well how I assembled the whole thing. I cut the bodice pieces from dress fabric and lining fabric, basted them together, then finished the edges with facings. Then I sewed in the neckline triangle by hand, and then sewed on the trim, also by hand. The stitches of the trim show on the inside, which I could have avoided but I had to do it quickly. Well. I don't mind that much, there are so many extant dresses around that look terrible on the inside. I will just classify it as period. :)<br />
After I finished the bodice, I attached the ruffled skirt. I sewed it only to the dress fabric of the bodice, and then folded the lining over the seam and sewed it down with whipstitches.<br />
By the way, I used four widths of fabric for the skirt. My fabric was 110cm wide.<br />
After the skirt was done, I added the pocket hoops. I sewed them only on the seam allowances of the skirt seam, so the stitches don't show outside.<br />
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Different views of the pocket hoops. They could probably be a bit bigger. They only make a subtle difference, but I guess that's enough. In case you are planning a robe de style and brooding over the size of the hoops as I did: I made mine exactly after the pocket hoops in Corsets & Crinolines by Nora Waugh, but only half wide. The length is the same as in the book. <br />
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I tried to take detailed pictures of the embroidered trim, but I obviously lack the necessary photographing skills. I hope you can at least make out some details. There is bullion embroidery on it, which I love. It makes it look antique and precious, doesn't it?<br />
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-61352191026672905712014-05-17T12:38:00.000+02:002014-05-17T13:45:07.497+02:00A Robe de Style inspired by Jeanne Lanvin (HSF '14 Challenge #2: Innovation)After months of contemplating and cluelessly staring at the muslin I finally finished my robe de style in three days of frantic sewing, because I wanted to wear it to a special event. Of course I already knew about the event when I started the dress in November last year (!), but you know how these things go.<br />
However, I learned that the simplest solutions are often the best, and that it would have been really smart to make the muslin out of a fabric that has a similar stand as the dress fabric. I tried numerous variations of the bodice with the muslin and wasn't satisfied with any of them, until I was forced to make a decision because my time was running out.<br />
So I chose the easiest version. No hidden darts or any other gimmicks, no special seam placement, just a more or less fitted front and back piece that somehow resembled my <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/157340" target="_blank">inspiration dress</a>. In the end the simple pattern turned out to work perfectly with the silk I was using, and I am very happy with the outcome.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here you can see the inevitable fitted-but-without-darts-puckering in the back. I hated it on the muslin, but it looks a lot better with the dress fabric. I like the diamond shape :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Yes, I should have used black snap fasteners. ;)</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJ6peUBOw7CV4qYNYm94dMQN7lkk77lvYJfgmrjjUfDidFQvKpGvju48i65UYTP5GPGoP0j4ZiGGe0IF1JfOtzHUia4ZK_nuylQb2zQAZCpH3K6eYLWMkFT7bw5gGxuhaxFAlYsxtdKTm/s1600/DSC_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKJ6peUBOw7CV4qYNYm94dMQN7lkk77lvYJfgmrjjUfDidFQvKpGvju48i65UYTP5GPGoP0j4ZiGGe0IF1JfOtzHUia4ZK_nuylQb2zQAZCpH3K6eYLWMkFT7bw5gGxuhaxFAlYsxtdKTm/s1600/DSC_0021.JPG" height="640" width="422" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where is my second foot? o.O</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like my neighbours garden gate. :)</td></tr>
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Originally, back in November '13 when I started to work on this dress, I planned to finish it for the HSF '14 Challenge #2: Innovation. That didn't work out, but I like the HSF "fact sheet" so I'm including it here:<br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b> Innovation<br />
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<b>Fabric</b>: 4,50m black Shantung silk for the dress, a piece of cream colored silk taffeta for the neckline, fine light pink silk twill for the bodice lining<br />
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<b>Pattern</b>: my own<br />
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<b>Year</b>: 1926<br />
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<b>Notions</b>: black thread, hooks and eyes, snap fasteners, embroidered vintage sari border<br />
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<b>How I historically accurate is it?</b> Good question. I'm not sure if I already know enough about the 1920s to evaluate it correctly. I think the pattern is fairly correct. There are no darts in the bodice, and I have seen similar puckering in the back of extant pieces. The silk fabric is probably correct, although it maybe should have been silk taffeta instead of shantung. I finished the neckline and armholes with facings, no idea if that was done in the 1920s. Also no idea if anyone used vintage sari borders to embellish a dress then. The dress closes with a combination of hooks/eyes and snap fasteners, which I have seen on several extant dresses. All invisible seams are done by machine, the visible ones are done by hand (which is never wrong, I guess)<br />
In my opinion, the overall look is coherent with the 1920s, the materials are more or less accurate, and the only thing I'm not really sure about is the general construction and the facings. I give it 70 %.<br />
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<b>Hours to complete:</b> ~ 35, including the patternmaking and the muslin<br />
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<b>First worn</b>: <a href="http://www.boheme-sauvage.net/" target="_blank">Boheme Sauvage Vienne</a>, April 26th 2014<br />
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<b>Total cost:</b> The fabric came from stash, but I vaguely recall that I paid € 10/m, so € 45 for the black silk. I don't remember the price of the other two silks, but let's just round it up to € 50 for the whole fabric. The sari border was € 12, the fastening materials and thread came from stash. So in total I paid around € 65 for the whole dress.<br />
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By the way, Laurie from <a href="http://teacupsamongthefabric.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">Teacups Among The Fabric</a> had the same idea for Challenge #2, and <a href="http://teacupsamongthefabric.blogspot.co.at/2014/02/a-certain-romantic-feel.html" target="_blank">she did get it done</a>. I like her dress very much, especially that it is shorter in front and has a differently coloured visible lining. Also, the light pink she used is lovely on her and emphasizes the playful nature of this type of dress.<br />
<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-48086183264527991332014-05-16T00:20:00.002+02:002014-05-16T00:29:17.584+02:00HSF '14 Challenge #9: Black and WhiteI finally completed another challenge!<br />
It was an easy one - create something that is either black or white, or black and white. Click here for a <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2014/02/the-hsf-14-challenge-9-black-white/" target="_blank">detailed challenge description</a>.<br />
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I chose to make a basic black 18th century petticoat, which is going to be part of a black fantasy 18th century outfit. The project would have been ideal for <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/12/the-hsf-14-challenge-6-fairytale/" target="_blank">Challenge #6: Fairytale</a> (there's always an evil fairy), but as I have to admit that the HSF is going waaaay to fast for me I'm now aiming to finish the rest for Challenge #21: Re-Do, which is due in November.<br />
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The facts:<br />
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<span class="fsl"><b>What the item is</b>: a black 18th century petticoat<br /> <br /><b> The Challenge</b>: Black and White<br /> <br /><b> Fabric</b>: black polyester jacquard, I think it is actually upholstery fabric<br /> <br /><b> Pattern</b>: http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/rock.shtml<br /> <br /><b> Year</b>: 1780s-ish<br /> <br /><b> Notions</b>: thread, cotton tape<br /> <br /><b> How historically accurate is it?</b> Fabric: 0% (poly), Construction: 0% (machine sewn), Pattern: 100%, so I give it around 30%<br /> <br /><b> Hours to complete</b>: getting the pleats right took me ages, so I think about 6 hours<br /> <br /><b> First worn</b>: not yet<br /> <br /><b> Total cost:</b> all of the materials came from stash (yay!) so I don't know exactly, but I think the fabric cost me around €10</span><br />
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<span class="fsl">The pictures: </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit15SVJMuQSq-GuFFj9_UQ63nMIFE6UAVAxBCFkYeZyGpye5He65ZlGzarseRny8N3St7POTIxdIwGkLRasd15MtUb6FprPD84ici1aHNpSJGbPJfco0Q6ITmchiJFqvvqdHcrGAY1h9Rs/s1600/bjupefront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit15SVJMuQSq-GuFFj9_UQ63nMIFE6UAVAxBCFkYeZyGpye5He65ZlGzarseRny8N3St7POTIxdIwGkLRasd15MtUb6FprPD84ici1aHNpSJGbPJfco0Q6ITmchiJFqvvqdHcrGAY1h9Rs/s1600/bjupefront.jpg" height="320" width="210" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side view. I have no idea why the shape of the bum pad looks funny in this picture. It looks fine when I'm wearing it.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view. I like the pleats.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidUTR8a7OMSAMI48JEJs6eQPKEbdvrWS3pPsXWh9ylMRi__Lh6UfT12w1-qhM7sdMCSIMNc5bj76ieg0HmZXC_MTRpQEr96rz-PCs4dAwkgYC6fEzQLAfE4b-E2F0ZOFXWtp64ZclPsj8J/s1600/bjupedetailback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidUTR8a7OMSAMI48JEJs6eQPKEbdvrWS3pPsXWh9ylMRi__Lh6UfT12w1-qhM7sdMCSIMNc5bj76ieg0HmZXC_MTRpQEr96rz-PCs4dAwkgYC6fEzQLAfE4b-E2F0ZOFXWtp64ZclPsj8J/s1600/bjupedetailback.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did I mention I like the pleats? They turned out quite even, which makes up for the messy waistband. :P </td></tr>
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-22410750079643921662014-05-05T22:11:00.001+02:002014-05-05T22:12:46.107+02:001920s slipBefore I started to work on the robe de style, I decided to warm up with the slip that I planned to wear underneath. A slip is a necessary undergarment that protects the skin from the material of the outer dress, e.g. scratchy wool, and also protects the outer garment from sweat or skin oils. Furthermore it smoothes the line and helps the dress to hang correctly. Plus, it's the perfect excuse to use all that whimsical lace. ;)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/0d/59/a7/0d59a7ce800888bc62d90a0e175803e2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/0d/59/a7/0d59a7ce800888bc62d90a0e175803e2.jpg" height="320" width="157" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1920's Cream Lace Chemise with Hand Embroidery from wearitagainsamvintage.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b0/21/e3/b021e3381061666d1cf9c7027a0ad23f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/b0/21/e3/b021e3381061666d1cf9c7027a0ad23f.jpg" height="320" width="162" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French silk/lace slip, 1920s. Can't find the original source, sorry :(</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/f8/6d/88/f86d8834b85a9a3b3112dd940b52c13e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/f8/6d/88/f86d8834b85a9a3b3112dd940b52c13e.jpg" height="320" width="163" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful vintage slip from wildrosevintage.blogspot.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/31/49/ae/3149aeb2a19c9983844e83465fb0aae4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/31/49/ae/3149aeb2a19c9983844e83465fb0aae4.jpg" height="320" width="116" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A more conservative slip from the Metropolitan Museum</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/90/a3/0e/90a30e78bc8eac39a436c50eb89b80f7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/90/a3/0e/90a30e78bc8eac39a436c50eb89b80f7.jpg" height="320" width="89" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A black 1920s silk slip from the <a href="http://metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/109472?rpp=20&pg=20&ft=*&what=Underwear&pos=386">Metropolitan Museum</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So I went trough my stash, actually in hope of finding some suitable silk, but then I came across a rather firm but smooth black and completely opaque rayon which I deemed perfect for the task. It has little spades woven into it and feels wonderful on the skin. I guess it's the stuff that is normally used for the backs of modern waistcoats.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozHZKE5d7HYW-IuQiiHdxcSQV5I4RuHmgKmSw3kotHlVIP-0wbMVdKCSZ2jtm9bU0POH4F0SF4QoRjqgoRDouAwWqmJTreCdKptkw5ywWIBbKY99NVUck_t6y9m3YxSNjSaWdv9WFv8EU/s1600/slip1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozHZKE5d7HYW-IuQiiHdxcSQV5I4RuHmgKmSw3kotHlVIP-0wbMVdKCSZ2jtm9bU0POH4F0SF4QoRjqgoRDouAwWqmJTreCdKptkw5ywWIBbKY99NVUck_t6y9m3YxSNjSaWdv9WFv8EU/s1600/slip1.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">front view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I used <a href="http://realhistoricalpatterns.tumblr.com/image/46636396031">this pattern (or rather, these instructions)</a> from <a href="http://realhistoricalpatterns.tumblr.com/">realhistoricalpatterns.tumblr.com</a> (which is a great blog by the way, thank you so much whoever you are!)<br />
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The pattern/instructions worked really well. The fact that my slip has a seam at the waist which isn't supposed to be there is just because I'm an idiot who can't accept that cutting fabric after midnight is not a good idea. I had no more fabric to cut it again, but then it's not that terrible a mistake. The slip is still doing what it's supposed to, and nobody is going to see it anyway.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggY1EITJbhbfTel47keHZ7nd0d12g1JjFYgb2e2o_m52sv2clNLq-0QLz8SV7jrWgK0Fafd5_3FPPKjenJhnjEVZu9UHlUYaxA1bnajhyMRIgyvitMkrFgwCz3m57_8WKsVRsjRqvniFcw/s1600/slip2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggY1EITJbhbfTel47keHZ7nd0d12g1JjFYgb2e2o_m52sv2clNLq-0QLz8SV7jrWgK0Fafd5_3FPPKjenJhnjEVZu9UHlUYaxA1bnajhyMRIgyvitMkrFgwCz3m57_8WKsVRsjRqvniFcw/s1600/slip2.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">side view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I admit, the lace I sewed on the hem looks a bit forced. I could probably have used it in a more graceful manner, but I didn't have an awful lot of time to finish the slip. Moreover, I was angry at the lace and wanted it to be gone quickly. I ordered it as stretchy lace on ebay for a totally different project and received this one, which is about as stretchy as hemp rope and for which I absolutely didn't have any other use, so it ended up on the slip.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8RSN9FZx6sReUMeCeFYLrQ1a-2mXDJ_6Y4FkPCtcS23PEYkjh4E_3ER2h87FOv34U-XkZRfhArqRqQOW8FOxWecMafTVlCOATpjC6Dv5wHm_ijP8tpUxNUAj2cgMQaNplc0xzKz9bvrB/s1600/slip3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8RSN9FZx6sReUMeCeFYLrQ1a-2mXDJ_6Y4FkPCtcS23PEYkjh4E_3ER2h87FOv34U-XkZRfhArqRqQOW8FOxWecMafTVlCOATpjC6Dv5wHm_ijP8tpUxNUAj2cgMQaNplc0xzKz9bvrB/s1600/slip3.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">back view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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All in all, I am very happy with this garment. Stupid mistakes aside, it was easy to sew and I made the right fabric choice - smooth against the skin and against the dress fabric.<br />
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<br />Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-2633195995567550212014-05-05T22:07:00.001+02:002014-05-16T00:39:52.992+02:00I made something! First of all:<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granny_Weatherwax#Powers" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcUFFrEEfMczIwtR6-O7Zp_ECn-o2aQvZptKhVCq9xFBakmStij1lVmW5NpUmDVn6oD_KR2mQ4PqnVKxHaVNX1mzSyK1XTQAAI6pEzEsEWrc7fqdqFvZDXY5vUu-sFm7Z38UIgPKguDSB/s1600/I-Atent-Dead.png" height="246" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sorry for the radio silence, life got in the way of sewing (again!). However, I'm fiercely determined not to let this blog die. I'm still here!<br />
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Now for the good news:<br />
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The robe de style is finished!<br />
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As always, after I was pondering for months over how to construct a perfectly fitting bodice without the use of darts, it came down to three days of frantic sewing before the event I wanted to wear it to. I'm just terrible at time management, and apparently didn't learn anything over the last 10 years.<br />
Anyway, it's finished now and I love it. I'm afraid there are no pictures yet - I forgot to get it photographed at the event, and since then something always got in the way.<br />
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I promise to post pictures as soon as possible, as well as a detailed description of the whole process!Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16239111005409197715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-42139504012011562412014-01-15T19:44:00.002+01:002014-01-15T19:44:55.536+01:00HSF '14 Kickoff challenge!In December 2012, New Zealand based Leimomi Oakes from <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">The Dreamstress</a> came up with an idea that had quite a massive impact on the internet-microcosmos of costume bloggers. She called it <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/" target="_blank">"The Historical Sew Fortnightly"</a>, and it consisted of 26 challenges that were due every two weeks throughout the whole year. For each challenge, Leimomi thought of a topic (e.g. "Under it all", "Stripes" or "Literature"), and the challengers made something related to that topic. What they made was completely up to them, as long as it was an item of historical clothing or accessoires and fitted the topic.<br />
In 2013, over 80 (!) costume bloggers officially participated in the HSF, which is quite an impressive number.<br />
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I didn't participate myself because 2013 was a very demanding year related to my studies, but I loved to read the many interesting blogposts and to see what ideas people had and how they implemented them. <br />
However, this year I'd like to join the fun and do at least a few challenges! I already have ideas for many of them, and hope that I will find the time to finish at least five.<br />
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Apparently I'm off to a good start as I already managed to complete the first challenge, <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/10/hsf-14-how-its-going-to-work-challenge-1/" target="_blank">"Make Do & Mend"</a>, and I'm even on time!<br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>#1: Make Do & Mend – due Wed 15 Jan. Let’s start of the year with a clean slate, and with a bit of a tidy up. Use this challenge as an opportunity to get your historical wardrobe in order by fixing any little bits that have worn out and gone wrong. Alternatively, you could focus on the historical precedent of making-do by re-making something into a historical garments, whether it be a bodice from a worn-out skirt, a chemise from old sheets, a bosom-friend from an old cardigan, or a new historical hat from an old modern one etc. Finally, you could just those people who had to make-do by making something for a historical character who would have scrimped and saved and re-made and mended until the fabric entirely fell apart.</i></blockquote>
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I had this chemisette I made about 1,5 years ago. I've never worn it before, and I also wasn't satisfied with it anymore because I used the machine on all seams. Now this is a thing I don't condemn in general (to each his own), but my own standards have risen recently. I will still use the machine for long invisible inside seams but I don't want to have any visible machine seams on historical clothing anymore. Moreover, the seams on this chemisette looked particularly messy, as I was in a hurry when I made it (and then didn't even wear it!) <br />
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Anyway, I unstitched the whole thing and restitched it by hand. There are pictures:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienERePLAXk_STM71FrAMF4hyphenhyphenIMHq41aCx49ca7vfqwbHEnX36gg1l0KO_kGYrNwlD3aQSCMKMVjEeS5goLLa_aCzGYAXSVM08vdeTQUXB6o1sfj1LKutDETScu3F7c5IAxXYLU27Amh4/s1600/chemisette-before2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienERePLAXk_STM71FrAMF4hyphenhyphenIMHq41aCx49ca7vfqwbHEnX36gg1l0KO_kGYrNwlD3aQSCMKMVjEeS5goLLa_aCzGYAXSVM08vdeTQUXB6o1sfj1LKutDETScu3F7c5IAxXYLU27Amh4/s1600/chemisette-before2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ugly machine stitching. There are also yellow marks of the tracing paper still visible....</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1VC7TfUPnZGVoRFxErjdpXplnbp_R-c_IgOSk2M7NYJ6_1GgIvA_NmfapXQL0TC92IzDrR746_s-YRfN_S7qjA2L8dFKqpvJRIhqNQF-EhRml9Uy9-I70AZpoc-nlqf58x5Q9PtNvL9E/s1600/chemisette-before1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1VC7TfUPnZGVoRFxErjdpXplnbp_R-c_IgOSk2M7NYJ6_1GgIvA_NmfapXQL0TC92IzDrR746_s-YRfN_S7qjA2L8dFKqpvJRIhqNQF-EhRml9Uy9-I70AZpoc-nlqf58x5Q9PtNvL9E/s1600/chemisette-before1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ugly machine stitching partly undone, partly still there. Unfortunately it left rather visible holes, but I hope they will vanish with time.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnJMspMUOrLRL6QNiC-CGKPRIHRu7ftpIGuBwgS_BvlHOK4-AV-H0-61xTUbh1wgGzxkPwhjcYVSVsVW-b83X9mdsreI2kuNbG-UTkeTr-RU4lfJev3HeXHQ2puxva2wSN6Z1MZjiRes/s1600/chemisette-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnJMspMUOrLRL6QNiC-CGKPRIHRu7ftpIGuBwgS_BvlHOK4-AV-H0-61xTUbh1wgGzxkPwhjcYVSVsVW-b83X9mdsreI2kuNbG-UTkeTr-RU4lfJev3HeXHQ2puxva2wSN6Z1MZjiRes/s1600/chemisette-front.jpg" height="390" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">front view</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOt0lwdMT-w4RrcwGnm_xxqLZghk-nbgllTtHPa4H7Uh20idHUBEuDjjXpP6QFM38yeMAvOE49j52kuLaCsWgodDH2ilZIhpxEjwf6DUstWKt0yuP0lXga2w9EqbnUK3IxY6RgY0vqCjg/s1600/chemisette-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOt0lwdMT-w4RrcwGnm_xxqLZghk-nbgllTtHPa4H7Uh20idHUBEuDjjXpP6QFM38yeMAvOE49j52kuLaCsWgodDH2ilZIhpxEjwf6DUstWKt0yuP0lXga2w9EqbnUK3IxY6RgY0vqCjg/s1600/chemisette-back.jpg" height="355" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">back view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIn9tvCER6LEfByVyIGQSrzqT2lBVubn3dBFNMizwctuRHd-L7vkyWepY5dwf-Z9GHY9WNXvzNX9m9IW-2_yNZR-e3OK83xOQ_P1OoDW1_wKEb-bT3X4oiA6il1uY7L-WKbWhSHNuwq2I/s1600/chemisette-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMlqcGU1buXKJBjxkO_os3dsjaIGO2ZvliXUGk-leM-dRPEnYulj4Ky0f1pS8Pp5fs2tWlYgwkfNOTBUJ0fpKUhkRzeJ5nyq0LseWKfHSM6Qb5YmGbjcsa4qfjBDF9yXAO34ym99zpjs/s1600/chemisette-detail1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMlqcGU1buXKJBjxkO_os3dsjaIGO2ZvliXUGk-leM-dRPEnYulj4Ky0f1pS8Pp5fs2tWlYgwkfNOTBUJ0fpKUhkRzeJ5nyq0LseWKfHSM6Qb5YmGbjcsa4qfjBDF9yXAO34ym99zpjs/s1600/chemisette-detail1.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front detail. As you can see, I used a whipstitch to attach the collar and the ruffle, and an ordinary running stitch for the front edges. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRzx6vAQk2YxpEjLfpepYLL_JjF8LVBqwB1CRg1UwpNkthHckamLCwsVhHhFOmXbRMLBcUnkocX6yu4fOzfGdrrEmn709fL9vvu_zVeQ7eSHt7donkwJA0Ia4FT-DP1b8RB1Aam-U2rA/s1600/chemisette-detail2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRzx6vAQk2YxpEjLfpepYLL_JjF8LVBqwB1CRg1UwpNkthHckamLCwsVhHhFOmXbRMLBcUnkocX6yu4fOzfGdrrEmn709fL9vvu_zVeQ7eSHt7donkwJA0Ia4FT-DP1b8RB1Aam-U2rA/s1600/chemisette-detail2.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder detail</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0Oern8v998i85PWTOSJk1CPJo8N-l2JUIMyEp3oevQCcdJqoApFeS49pX9zgpd4gHshEpePoH4CP9mbVNEkenJjuZVITpmXo7lSEYJc47Ycyl2cYmE58op_QSQ1oSvyqMdZ66UCZ8S8/s1600/chemisette-detail3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0Oern8v998i85PWTOSJk1CPJo8N-l2JUIMyEp3oevQCcdJqoApFeS49pX9zgpd4gHshEpePoH4CP9mbVNEkenJjuZVITpmXo7lSEYJc47Ycyl2cYmE58op_QSQ1oSvyqMdZ66UCZ8S8/s1600/chemisette-detail3.jpg" height="263" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, this is a blood stain! That's the price you pay for handstitching. ;)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>The Challenge:</b> #1: Make Do & Mend<br />
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<b>Fabric:</b> white cotton lawn<br />
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<b>Pattern:</b> Janet Arnold "Patterns of Fashion 1" <br />
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<b>Year:</b> According to JA, c.1800-1825<br />
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<b>Notions:</b> thread, cotton string<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> I think now it is rather accurate. It loses points because there's still machine stitching in the shoulder seams, the holes of the previous stitching are still visible in part, and I have no idea if I used the correct stitches. I'll give it 80 %. <br />
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<b>Hours to complete:</b> the unstitching and restitching took me around 4 hours (those machine seams are not easy to get rid of)<br />
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<b>First worn:</b> to visit the enchanting christmas market at Schloss Hof (yes, this was a few days before Christmas, but I'm still within the one-month-term)<br />
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<b>Total cost:</b> I salvaged the string from a parcel so it was free, and the fabric came from stash. It probably didn't cost me more then 3€ altogether.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-3063656346415766942013-12-30T15:17:00.003+01:002013-12-30T15:19:32.076+01:00Robe de Style - onwards!There has been progress with the Robe de Style! May I present, the Mighty Muslin:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlDOlCluvgz1LwREKuJVGS_96ErsQYrogLgOB0-phBqVIZCVra3vnQ6CMgaQo157_dX2gelBVBz_xmavip89OzupcbvsDe7eGLTmFcGvSzPqxI4ZY6JYAsD0Vr14CrNzHMQRGuHd3rxY/s1600/rds-muslin1_sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlDOlCluvgz1LwREKuJVGS_96ErsQYrogLgOB0-phBqVIZCVra3vnQ6CMgaQo157_dX2gelBVBz_xmavip89OzupcbvsDe7eGLTmFcGvSzPqxI4ZY6JYAsD0Vr14CrNzHMQRGuHd3rxY/s640/rds-muslin1_sm.jpg" width="371" /></a></div>
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Compared with my model: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMEfgpdnyeZBgie80qBIXzxrf89ePO7vttwdg2wzoJAPgnmH3KpYrmVLOkd8HPKt-LRDdcXlNBT8fnZHVtGGmVvZh5fGxnyIGzxcrliEEjC4gklIo4VcgBq-LAH-jgRRu8F8PPaZ6AUg/s1600/robedestylemet1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMEfgpdnyeZBgie80qBIXzxrf89ePO7vttwdg2wzoJAPgnmH3KpYrmVLOkd8HPKt-LRDdcXlNBT8fnZHVtGGmVvZh5fGxnyIGzxcrliEEjC4gklIo4VcgBq-LAH-jgRRu8F8PPaZ6AUg/s320/robedestylemet1.jpg" width="156" /></a></div>
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Hm. I wonder if I should take it in even more at the waist, or if the more defined waist of the model is the effect of the undergarment. I guess I'll try both (I still haven't decided if I want small hoops to go under it or just tulle fluff.)<br />
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I'll also have to alter the shoulders and the curve of the skirt edge, and the neckline should be lower, but at least I generally like where the skirt is sitting. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-66853572583762491482013-12-07T20:36:00.000+01:002013-12-07T20:37:11.260+01:00Lanvin Robe de style - A bit of ResearchSorry for the recent radio silence! My last weeks were completely dominated by studying for a very hard exam, in fact the hardest one you have to pass when studying pharmacy in Vienna. And I did pass, at first try!! This is a huge milestone in my student career, and while I still have several exams to master before I finish, everything from now on will be easier as this. Yay! :)<br />
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Anyway. A few weeks before the exam (when I wrote the last blog post), I still thought I could go to the 3rd Boheme Sauvage (a 20s event) which was taking place 3 days before the exam. I really should have known better by now.<br />
I ALWAYS need every second of the last days before a big exam for crazy studying, to feel reasonably prepared, and, more important, to keep my nerves under control. So, no Boheme Sauvage for me this time. <br />
Thus, there's also no finished Robe de style or even good pictures of my sparkly 30s ballgown to show you.<br />
<br />
I'm already studying for the next exam, but this one is not nearly as much of a problem as the last one, so I did have some time to do some necessary research on my RDS plans.<br />
<br />
I'll just leave out the paragraph about what makes a RDS special, there are already more than enough blogposts about this out there. You can also read about the basics in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robe_de_style" target="_blank">RDS wikipedia article</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMEfgpdnyeZBgie80qBIXzxrf89ePO7vttwdg2wzoJAPgnmH3KpYrmVLOkd8HPKt-LRDdcXlNBT8fnZHVtGGmVvZh5fGxnyIGzxcrliEEjC4gklIo4VcgBq-LAH-jgRRu8F8PPaZ6AUg/s1600/robedestylemet1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimMEfgpdnyeZBgie80qBIXzxrf89ePO7vttwdg2wzoJAPgnmH3KpYrmVLOkd8HPKt-LRDdcXlNBT8fnZHVtGGmVvZh5fGxnyIGzxcrliEEjC4gklIo4VcgBq-LAH-jgRRu8F8PPaZ6AUg/s640/robedestylemet1.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I chose this Lanvin dress from the collection of the MET as main inspiration for my RDS.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By now I have a working muslin of the upper part, but the skirt turned out to be a bit of a problem. I'm still not entirely sure where it should sit. I started out with the typical 20s dropped waist, which was waaaaaay too low and just looked silly and wrong. Right now it's about the height where low rise jeans would sit. I think I'll try attaching the skirt even higher, roughly at the height of the upper edge of my hipbone, and then decide which looks best. I promise, my next post will at least contain pictures of the muslin.<br />
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Next question: what's under this skirt?<br />
RDSs were often supported by panniers or pocket hoops, much like 18th century dresses.<br />
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The MET provides us with this:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArrjiUKrgiiL6NnfQRqpMq6PFEAv2VDhdSyRzK3RmNcjmfnt-xsTiqTfe_tO06hNvFACRUlqlLBBZbKNa3NKSQ5kvQ1NvmUWD7tsUVPDNrQEJ8HZI_cc8HBrcMXf1uXjICmQKBUmXlu8/s1600/robedestylemet5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArrjiUKrgiiL6NnfQRqpMq6PFEAv2VDhdSyRzK3RmNcjmfnt-xsTiqTfe_tO06hNvFACRUlqlLBBZbKNa3NKSQ5kvQ1NvmUWD7tsUVPDNrQEJ8HZI_cc8HBrcMXf1uXjICmQKBUmXlu8/s640/robedestylemet5.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/94723?img=4" target="_blank">MET link</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I don't know what's going on here. Okay, there are lots of (probably) silk organza ruffles, but what are the white thingies on the left and the right side? The left one looks like the upper part of attached pocked hoops, but what's with the right one? I'm quite sure there should be a firmer support than just organza ruffles to achieve the typical bell like shape of a RDS.<br />
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Interestingly, it seems the MET owns two black versions of this dress, the one above with the smaller skirt and one with pocket hoops:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH291S6dwa1wHloM5mfT3EJ14Z4s9PMTN23r3Z6HtQrUijzO2xv5OqX17uE7gQQilkHi1vRRjbdv3VxDZdB-Uf3SnDO5z91SUeqekZOOrYlDVfGhHsk2cfBSYpK5XgfnUQ1VPBNC3dbuA/s1600/robedestyle_breit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH291S6dwa1wHloM5mfT3EJ14Z4s9PMTN23r3Z6HtQrUijzO2xv5OqX17uE7gQQilkHi1vRRjbdv3VxDZdB-Uf3SnDO5z91SUeqekZOOrYlDVfGhHsk2cfBSYpK5XgfnUQ1VPBNC3dbuA/s640/robedestyle_breit.jpg" width="472" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/157340" target="_blank">MET link</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was confused at first, because from afar they look exactly the same (apart from the skirt shape and visible part of the slip at the neckline), but using the zoom function you can clearly see differences at the shoulders and in the beading. Also the front skirt of the second dress isn't as heavily gathered as in the first one.<br />
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There are even more extant versions of this dress:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLjwQHSkBo9-b-YcZAXm3VYv8nywuPuLyADDa6EzeCGnQVCIgJ5XgeNStX9gflr0PsAWq7AjRuLalnw33-2E36BaKI2LEoSqDV5jqJFUCJ5z_RHuzAZzV84xi6h1YVTkP1zdlHRxy7BA/s1600/rds-midnightblue.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLjwQHSkBo9-b-YcZAXm3VYv8nywuPuLyADDa6EzeCGnQVCIgJ5XgeNStX9gflr0PsAWq7AjRuLalnw33-2E36BaKI2LEoSqDV5jqJFUCJ5z_RHuzAZzV84xi6h1YVTkP1zdlHRxy7BA/s400/rds-midnightblue.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In midnight blue from the <a href="http://kent.pastperfect-online.com/34506cgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=6B2C133C-04CE-42F7-AEC6-474852724160;type=101" target="_blank">Kent State University Museum</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZmomxiOuPkVxIKAYsGiiHmyXflTlBoch4YyQJ8ATSyptHgIWUIWulxV0y-FX4nnfjwlZhibuST7aTF2g2vC0TmHTyw9p_UGpzC__Uyk-vS2rUOVsIDqrop2RLY6UnGAnUEjquRrdi3Q/s1600/rds-duskypink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZmomxiOuPkVxIKAYsGiiHmyXflTlBoch4YyQJ8ATSyptHgIWUIWulxV0y-FX4nnfjwlZhibuST7aTF2g2vC0TmHTyw9p_UGpzC__Uyk-vS2rUOVsIDqrop2RLY6UnGAnUEjquRrdi3Q/s320/rds-duskypink.jpg" width="137" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a lovely dusky pink one! This one was apparently sold by Christies. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All of them apart from the first one seem to achieve their shape with pocket hoops or a small pannier. The hoops could apparently be attached directly to the dress, or to the slip, but I need to put some more research into this topic (there's going to be another post).<br />
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I think with my dress I'll go with small pocket hoops, but I still have to meditate about whether I want them sewed to the dress or to the slip.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-11700572351808283752013-11-01T22:06:00.000+01:002013-11-01T22:13:16.169+01:00What do football, the pope and a Robe de Style have in common?<br />
For some reason, I am totally susceptible to mass phenomena (only the non-violent kind, of course!).<br />
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E.g., apart from attending the odd or two football games as there is a field round the corner from where I live and it's a nice excuse for having 2-3 beers and potato chips, I'm not interested in football at all. I'm not interested in watching most sports, but I'm particularly not interested in watching football.<br />
And yet, when there's a European or even world championship happening, with public viewing and everyone talking about it, I really enjoy being right there in the middle, watching (and commenting on) as many games as possible, celebrating with others on the streets and becoming an all-knowing expert.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR9POzojBNVdR3SUjg_ExX6f16sc-BaotPu0TkO3KRqtFiazT37HyfMy_wGz2nJf8lgx6kKHLOVjKjYXtZ1_eVNSpXNdz6nKYPYNycIgFA2rUhs0Vhgv3PsReZ5KcJnBc3o1-RCLhlo7U/s1600/This-Isnt-Football_o_97520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR9POzojBNVdR3SUjg_ExX6f16sc-BaotPu0TkO3KRqtFiazT37HyfMy_wGz2nJf8lgx6kKHLOVjKjYXtZ1_eVNSpXNdz6nKYPYNycIgFA2rUhs0Vhgv3PsReZ5KcJnBc3o1-RCLhlo7U/s320/This-Isnt-Football_o_97520.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>
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Similarly, though I'm christened I don't care much for the church, it's protagonists or it's followers. I don't think I ever voluntarily visited a church to attend mass. I have no idea at all about what the sacral decision-makers are currently up to, and I honestly couldn't care less. BUT when I found out that there's going to be a new pope and suddenly the newspapers as well as the internet where full of it, I couldn't get enough of it. I spent hours learning about the history of the papal conclave, and when the day finally arrived, I meticulously followed every newsticker, news feed or livestream I could find, to be the first one to find out who will be the new pope. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9N4LohUaJFLkBuden_qZvghEu1bTnIOO9hUqpaFP_ieZJisM7VFxYzheKIXw3xMEX683tiNvDly0U-ES-B6JHDGyZdvt_QwSnOKwIVAWiJQalWpSUOOPeSgm9TdxzP-DiQgDISMgGBGk/s1600/pope-zoidberg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9N4LohUaJFLkBuden_qZvghEu1bTnIOO9hUqpaFP_ieZJisM7VFxYzheKIXw3xMEX683tiNvDly0U-ES-B6JHDGyZdvt_QwSnOKwIVAWiJQalWpSUOOPeSgm9TdxzP-DiQgDISMgGBGk/s320/pope-zoidberg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When I started out with sewing and costuming, I found my favourite eras as quickly as I found my least favourite eras - and the 1920s definitly ranked very high with the latter category. The low waist, the rectangular shapes, the silly hats... nope. Not mine. Do not want. <br />
Then, some time ago, the Twenties craze started and eventually reached Austria. Electroswing came up. "Speakeasy"-parties everywhere, even here in Vienna! Boardwalk Empire, The Great Gatsby, Downton Abbey. Suddenly, the costume blogs I was reading were filled with adventures in flapper fashion, and the more I saw of it, the more I started to like it.<br />
Anyway, here's my first attempt at flapper clothing:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLnnzK95Q2jB4SmHPzEo0wy6jwZEgrVuooSYlXPk5ximhJ5KTwkqheVp1yPNkgll4lfkc8ZQoIj1mCo2l87I32l_tX6cg5fAhlYOxrNFS3YEmbSoBDRusqKEcTH4PmvbXmoqpTtxFiW4/s1600/flapperdress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLnnzK95Q2jB4SmHPzEo0wy6jwZEgrVuooSYlXPk5ximhJ5KTwkqheVp1yPNkgll4lfkc8ZQoIj1mCo2l87I32l_tX6cg5fAhlYOxrNFS3YEmbSoBDRusqKEcTH4PmvbXmoqpTtxFiW4/s400/flapperdress.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some day there will be better pictures! :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I made it after <a href="http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=c8lkrepobmjb4oonbv6h53kdl3&topic=44553.0" target="_blank">this excellent tutorial</a>. As always with my first tries, it's not authentic, although I'm actually not sure with this one (the fabric is cotton crepe and the cut isn't too far off, I think... but then I don't know enough about twenties dresses yet).<br />
I've already worn it 3 or 4 times on various occasions, and I just love it. It's so comfortable, and the skirt is great for swirling. :)<br />
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So for the next event, the 3rd <a href="http://www.boheme-sauvage.net/" target="_blank">Bohème Sauvage</a> in Vienna on November 23rd, I'm planning to make a new dress, which, as you can already guess if you haven't fallen asleep yet and still remember the title of this post, will be a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robe_de_style" target="_blank">Robe de Style</a>. <br />
As inspiration, I chose <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/94723?img=0" target="_blank">this one</a> from the collection of the <i>Metropolitan Museum of Art</i>:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_U9vnWKx0Y2OhUKEjf3WQUgpuCKnYrU_1XYh2MTvpnK2mc5On4sw1gULcUQPALArsJP04iWQ6fbA1sfXwY95zVwEcLFxygURPd6fV1getTMKldYt24K-Xy3hTlIvWT9TfyENVTVqJs2k/s1600/robedestylemet1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_U9vnWKx0Y2OhUKEjf3WQUgpuCKnYrU_1XYh2MTvpnK2mc5On4sw1gULcUQPALArsJP04iWQ6fbA1sfXwY95zVwEcLFxygURPd6fV1getTMKldYt24K-Xy3hTlIvWT9TfyENVTVqJs2k/s640/robedestylemet1.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robe de Style, House of Lanvin, fall-winter 1926/27</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I found a beautiful black shantung silk with very few knobs in my stash, and ordered a vintage sari border on ebay as trim.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGppIo12g1GZSDLAyN6AHczUx-zlwbLfl3d2O31VktRxqW8xwFwKYW_vy3NG_nlZJVd5pRdvLYJpFNh0C1TYuHENfTWXNXlTntZXyYEmLqlPzj2BJY2YBLRrgUAC7Gv9XXIzXHQ8qd2Y/s1600/borte4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGppIo12g1GZSDLAyN6AHczUx-zlwbLfl3d2O31VktRxqW8xwFwKYW_vy3NG_nlZJVd5pRdvLYJpFNh0C1TYuHENfTWXNXlTntZXyYEmLqlPzj2BJY2YBLRrgUAC7Gv9XXIzXHQ8qd2Y/s400/borte4.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm not sure if I will really finish this until the 23rd, as I'm currently studying for a very big exam and can only sew for an hour or so in the evenings. If I don't finish it, I luckily have a nice backup plan, which I'm not telling you about yet :P Only that it's sparkling and pink. :D<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-26103183022187213272013-10-23T13:41:00.001+02:002013-10-25T15:32:08.808+02:00Costume recap - The CamococoBack in 2011, a good friend had the awesome idea to make 18th century dresses out of camouflage fabric (yes, I have strange friends). As I am genetically incapable of resisting a crazy idea, of course I had to participate. Moreover, I wanted to try 18th century clothing for some time, and this was the perfect opportunity. If I got it wrong, at least I wouldn't get it wrong using expensive silk and investing hours of handstitching, right?<br />
I quickly decided that it should be a zone front gown, and that I would use classic olive green camo fabric, combined with black poly taffeta. A huge hat should complete the ensemble.<br />
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But first - underthings! I decided to try the Diderot stays pattern from Nora Waughs "Corsets and Crinolines", and it worked like a charm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0fSgEo9YX2CvpUDCh_U74mvUaFBrihOC98uA8p4iMQVlSKoV82J8rmVrHdGT6kHsW7JxPdkTXKRBNElgIsbg-LDK3S3MdD0OsXV-ya1Mn3R-bn1BfMzluY5vEmpuRZeHAG2bqSzgSJw/s1600/schnuerbrust1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0fSgEo9YX2CvpUDCh_U74mvUaFBrihOC98uA8p4iMQVlSKoV82J8rmVrHdGT6kHsW7JxPdkTXKRBNElgIsbg-LDK3S3MdD0OsXV-ya1Mn3R-bn1BfMzluY5vEmpuRZeHAG2bqSzgSJw/s320/schnuerbrust1.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boobies alarm! It's incredible what these stays do to your décolleté...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-bQV3pFhh1k-NwqoYEOVagy_LG1P0DDdk14j9_uN6bO6Tq3OMREicBoj2zVVPmDyEt9iWhW8sW0-a0mYBZJ0BPNss9lQ12r8qYSNFW_pUMCQPfgTwLQjmP3lalQgAM2syhiijYNehVv4/s1600/schnuerbrust2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-bQV3pFhh1k-NwqoYEOVagy_LG1P0DDdk14j9_uN6bO6Tq3OMREicBoj2zVVPmDyEt9iWhW8sW0-a0mYBZJ0BPNss9lQ12r8qYSNFW_pUMCQPfgTwLQjmP3lalQgAM2syhiijYNehVv4/s320/schnuerbrust2.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks good, feels good. Success!</td></tr>
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They are actually comfortable! I know, fabric is wrong, no visible boning channels wrong, metal eyelets wrong, machine stitching wrong, synthetic ribbon wrong.... but hey, the pattern is authentic! And it fits, which means I can use better materials and invest more work next time without risking that it doesn't fit after weeks of handstitching.<br />
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Now for the dress: I used an Anglaise pattern from Janet Arnolds "Patterns of Fashion" and altered the front so it would have the "zone gown" look. I decided that I wanted long sleeves, so I used a long sleeve pattern I found in Nora Waughs "The Cut of Women's clothes". For the skirt I used the tutorial at <a href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/rock.shtml" target="_blank">La Couturiére Parisienne</a> and adapted it so it would fit over a bum pad. I also made a cotton petticoat with ruffles in the back to wear underneath, but I don't think the ruffles add much to the effect.<br />
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Anyway, pictures!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GdCHjSP0ZCrermq3VXyNK3WabOSHGhma2PvtXkoExvyrHowLXXrWZlrXj3vJhhGmlJStt1aXFVoSioPYThnEvNPdCIbAILOnVwZqHvjDTOBMr4LnxgWNOl0sg2Lj_v1TySnPxKHI7zY/s1600/tarnkoko2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GdCHjSP0ZCrermq3VXyNK3WabOSHGhma2PvtXkoExvyrHowLXXrWZlrXj3vJhhGmlJStt1aXFVoSioPYThnEvNPdCIbAILOnVwZqHvjDTOBMr4LnxgWNOl0sg2Lj_v1TySnPxKHI7zY/s640/tarnkoko2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Camococo dress, complete with hair, hat, and nonsense medals I got from ebay</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu9g0-TC0PhXj6Y_p-ULa2rYKgwHJqcERfrlUTWXjlrJhWTmKnPkFtHOrsmdE309wuGSXUPF-zoWlGlH5m58QIJSHgbWoxGzzYDyqUIqAhLFKptpF-0L_CuzJdKaciVVC345Yyc13xt0I/s1600/tarnkoko1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu9g0-TC0PhXj6Y_p-ULa2rYKgwHJqcERfrlUTWXjlrJhWTmKnPkFtHOrsmdE309wuGSXUPF-zoWlGlH5m58QIJSHgbWoxGzzYDyqUIqAhLFKptpF-0L_CuzJdKaciVVC345Yyc13xt0I/s640/tarnkoko1.JPG" width="374" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm actually not satisfied with the bum pad. It's too small. </td></tr>
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The above two pictures were taken in Leipzig at the <a href="http://www.wave-gotik-treffen.de/" target="_blank">Wave Gotik Treffen</a>, where I wore the dress for the first time. The hair is not at all my own hair, but an insanely curly wig, which adds a lot to the whole ensemble. <br />
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I also made the hat from scratch - it has a buckram frame covered with black silk (yes, real silk :D ) and is decorated with organza (not silk), a metal buckle, LOTS of feathers, and a miniature aircraft carrier (which unfortunately isn't really visible on the pictures).<br />
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This year, I decided to wear the dress again to <a href="http://www.schlosshof.at/cms_neu/index.php?page=barockfest" target="_blank">Barockfest</a> at <a href="http://www.schlosshof.at/" target="_blank">Schloss Hof</a>, which is more of a carnival than a serious costume event, so I thought the dress would be appropriate. I also wore it because I don't have another 18th century dress yet, but wanted to go to Schloss Hof. However, it turned out to be the right decision, because I totally unexpected scored 3rd place at the costume contest (which I didn't even know about beforehand)! :D <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92EAGxhqBvstV5ZlgdJXyWPMf8HpqHu3KV9LnhPdgadE_IwCbj5p9npBPKOcK23wy8E8jeyc-5bFZ-AogSl0driEHsXyiGiY_Nst4Vc1jGZB-a5UQ106fS1CVmg2rWZjR5UJkdSrurtk/s1600/tarnkoko4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh92EAGxhqBvstV5ZlgdJXyWPMf8HpqHu3KV9LnhPdgadE_IwCbj5p9npBPKOcK23wy8E8jeyc-5bFZ-AogSl0driEHsXyiGiY_Nst4Vc1jGZB-a5UQ106fS1CVmg2rWZjR5UJkdSrurtk/s400/tarnkoko4.jpg" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I restyled the wig to look more like a "Hedgehog" which didn't work perfectly, but it's still okay with the hat ;)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBTEZXdXxZxrUEleo5ip8pK7YGSAg8yvFp_Q5i_MWYm4fkeHtDmZhnqGPreDB7Kiuv0xp1IjyRLuQOA7o9Br0c9kH_pog_ikMTYq62PkQQhiJkEYJzfmm2IfgJGerzbbYEGKu-_qPu54/s1600/tarnkoko5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBTEZXdXxZxrUEleo5ip8pK7YGSAg8yvFp_Q5i_MWYm4fkeHtDmZhnqGPreDB7Kiuv0xp1IjyRLuQOA7o9Br0c9kH_pog_ikMTYq62PkQQhiJkEYJzfmm2IfgJGerzbbYEGKu-_qPu54/s400/tarnkoko5.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relaxing in the beautiful gardens of Schloss Hof</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeUEdQg_p6-o8t1xOIsgbHHZFOv06116YBps7rIW7agjVAO4P8WpEmcp5J7_FOoUufDEhGSib35BqSpojxrXbZeV9xKvOCdZQ_Py4YFulrHVCzEQ35UsP6Yj7_UDKuIK5dZeG1QCLnCk/s1600/tarnkoko6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqeUEdQg_p6-o8t1xOIsgbHHZFOv06116YBps7rIW7agjVAO4P8WpEmcp5J7_FOoUufDEhGSib35BqSpojxrXbZeV9xKvOCdZQ_Py4YFulrHVCzEQ35UsP6Yj7_UDKuIK5dZeG1QCLnCk/s400/tarnkoko6.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my friends <a href="http://wwwu.edu.uni-klu.ac.at/mdragasc/wordpress/category/make-clothes-not-war/" target="_blank">Eleanor Vivian</a> (middle) and <a href="http://blackangel-fashion.blogspot.co.at/" target="_blank">BlackAngel</a> (right), who were both also nominated at the costume contest! Congratulations to us all! :)</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-12824283410727663272013-10-17T21:24:00.000+02:002013-10-18T10:23:48.267+02:00Costume recap - The Escher NaiseOkay, I have nothing new to show yet, so I'll just start with some of my old projects before it gets boring here. <br />
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One of my all time favourite gowns is my victorian polonaise (dubbed "Escher Naise" by my friend <a href="http://wwwu.edu.uni-klu.ac.at/mdragasc/wordpress/category/make-clothes-not-war/" target="_blank">Mme. Eleanor Vivian</a>, because the pattern looks a bit like it formed in the head of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M._C._Escher" target="_blank">M.C. Escher</a>). <br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">I made it for the WGT
2010 (gothic festival in Leipzig, Germany), so I didn't bother to use only historically
accurate fabric. Besides, it was only my second try at victorian clothing, and I don't want to use expensive silk or wool when I'm not yet sure what I'm doing.So the fabric is some mixed fiber (I think it was actually intended for furniture), the edges are bound with velvet and the sleeves
are decorated with two layers of fine black lace. The front closes with
hooks and eyes. The skirt is made from ordinary black cotton and has a
broad ruffle at the hem, decorated with velvet ribbon.</span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">I used the well-known Truly Victorian pattern, but altered the sleeves so they would look a bit like 18th century sleeves. The pattern went together very well, but I'll probably not use it again, at least not as it is - you see it too often these days, and somehow it's funny meeting people at events that basically wear the same dress as you do. (Yes I know, different fabric and styling and all, but it's just weird when you can tell exactly which pattern a dress was made of from 100 metres away.)</span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br /></span></span>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"> Anyway, I'm very pleased with how it came out. It fits like a glove, and I'm especially proud of the exact pattern matching in the front. </span></span><br />
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><br /></span></span>
<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Enough of the talking, on to the pictures! </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNFulXqbBNHuAWYNF3Cf2ImUnDkyAUdkUydzMrScMVLWTbBObd2f3P-MCzfKAKivhsr8eFLtA9S_8ehWS1TIF_gtsezm-WrdJvpMHucrmjx5r5xA2T0KpFSm5Pt5mNykhHSyvW-X-TFPY/s1600/eschernaise1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNFulXqbBNHuAWYNF3Cf2ImUnDkyAUdkUydzMrScMVLWTbBObd2f3P-MCzfKAKivhsr8eFLtA9S_8ehWS1TIF_gtsezm-WrdJvpMHucrmjx5r5xA2T0KpFSm5Pt5mNykhHSyvW-X-TFPY/s1600/eschernaise1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHi0PoKd14rqbwP_QQISo2D90tbePI7M4bDTOvDZuwwyAgY8pcWP0l5QffiIQdUW2EZ1oI_Zhxj7eWpkJXeeS4ugVoUwPrFNt3L2OEjXebXgGFDKRY1T01NJuJcoDJcwAhub5AQ-RaLuU/s1600/eschernaise2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHi0PoKd14rqbwP_QQISo2D90tbePI7M4bDTOvDZuwwyAgY8pcWP0l5QffiIQdUW2EZ1oI_Zhxj7eWpkJXeeS4ugVoUwPrFNt3L2OEjXebXgGFDKRY1T01NJuJcoDJcwAhub5AQ-RaLuU/s1600/eschernaise2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Z2iDLuIH545XkM37DRCb3kV0jvvHrMB8Rqi4nbxQxlBtsdmXViqq5sgVIgakiaT6VHWSlZ61ZZwa7VIgWxHjPPHDkMWmpp-9fep_jD1GQXxifd0R_dPhRa8_F_v6EazvWIZSLr61hQE/s1600/eschernaise3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Z2iDLuIH545XkM37DRCb3kV0jvvHrMB8Rqi4nbxQxlBtsdmXViqq5sgVIgakiaT6VHWSlZ61ZZwa7VIgWxHjPPHDkMWmpp-9fep_jD1GQXxifd0R_dPhRa8_F_v6EazvWIZSLr61hQE/s640/eschernaise3.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With lovely Mme. Eleanor Vivian on the left - all the stripes on her dress match exactly at the seams!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBONwY3UuZp_ApwhGG5EbVr9DoUOu0QU9qrloKymgAxP_wsVwcP0gVhrxOsD0AKkueiGYo0zSYfnV5u5Q3o8leiZ_r533GiVzHotKhRV__yhpq9N6vupcf2veDKWvSli0K719hDLEeXJo/s1600/eschernaise4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBONwY3UuZp_ApwhGG5EbVr9DoUOu0QU9qrloKymgAxP_wsVwcP0gVhrxOsD0AKkueiGYo0zSYfnV5u5Q3o8leiZ_r533GiVzHotKhRV__yhpq9N6vupcf2veDKWvSli0K719hDLEeXJo/s640/eschernaise4.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here you can see the pattern better. Picture and editing by <a href="http://www.velvet-photos.de/" target="_blank">Alexander Löbel</a> (thanks again!!).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFxnX8qnqDKaWP0MZPsG9II7FDNB9q5N5VQRq1zRldUAc_HErvHRWBHzGW2adlXDezH-Bz-SFPCSnU5G8QuqvQdqUlxOdh8664W0IUixIq55bo8rb9WDgDUI6he3vHDZ21H3T86qKOWs/s1600/eschernaise5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFxnX8qnqDKaWP0MZPsG9II7FDNB9q5N5VQRq1zRldUAc_HErvHRWBHzGW2adlXDezH-Bz-SFPCSnU5G8QuqvQdqUlxOdh8664W0IUixIq55bo8rb9WDgDUI6he3vHDZ21H3T86qKOWs/s640/eschernaise5.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Again with Eleanor Vivian - picture and editing by the wonderful <a href="http://www.alwapetroni.com/" target="_blank">Alwa Petroni</a> / <a href="http://www.graubild.com/" target="_blank">Graubild</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgXvFzUK8Cr8HvD91OwuxZM2Yk6XCVuoir7kUKBlqTHyAgp5s-Wjw5xo1jN59ttb_PHLN0ta-cY2jClxOtaJa0yBC78mObsRjO89R5fQOAWEojLPcL9hhyZ7HVMkDpLKJCIFybOUEnkM/s1600/eschernaise6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgXvFzUK8Cr8HvD91OwuxZM2Yk6XCVuoir7kUKBlqTHyAgp5s-Wjw5xo1jN59ttb_PHLN0ta-cY2jClxOtaJa0yBC78mObsRjO89R5fQOAWEojLPcL9hhyZ7HVMkDpLKJCIFybOUEnkM/s640/eschernaise6.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dress also passed the picnic test! :D (I actually don't have weird super-long legs - I just took off my boots *lol* )</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaWgbmjXSnRc11EbG84vn543MkVIC37V5GPeNl6Bg9-DLACjixlFFo_7BNaJ0ZhaQ5lnqVg-knOoDaHU8qDBJAMOoSnUfoqavDO024s17edpsoL-ED9dCnskuPkdPgHTp6AT6LWYvvYo/s1600/eschernaise7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaWgbmjXSnRc11EbG84vn543MkVIC37V5GPeNl6Bg9-DLACjixlFFo_7BNaJ0ZhaQ5lnqVg-knOoDaHU8qDBJAMOoSnUfoqavDO024s17edpsoL-ED9dCnskuPkdPgHTp6AT6LWYvvYo/s640/eschernaise7.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is how it looks on my dress form at home. The light is terrible and I couldn't close it all the way down, but at least you can see the whole dress.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXaiYvklSveGMZgu3-VfBUmY69vWkqPvISEMoL70_6mQPNIi3y0uIaA0m6QX7EzZNtRcRhQUrU2qhM9FxtB-cfGHRHKu2fGWy4koi-VkJ5dAORI4tkDcmLiiCUI-2OOXIc3V7leK8DII/s1600/eschernaise8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXaiYvklSveGMZgu3-VfBUmY69vWkqPvISEMoL70_6mQPNIi3y0uIaA0m6QX7EzZNtRcRhQUrU2qhM9FxtB-cfGHRHKu2fGWy4koi-VkJ5dAORI4tkDcmLiiCUI-2OOXIc3V7leK8DII/s640/eschernaise8.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The drapery from the side... </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz8RvvRXHtwppycA_jSYEKt3INxmoedmXIOcQbDSr4OXP4uvxXW5CHWE9DPcUZIi093FaCcoTU_19h7Zn7jGbZFttsk-QVMfKbp9HTbx4l5w7UJVH6x8DVFEIrUSOX2zNWVXmYojfDsxQ/s1600/eschernaise9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz8RvvRXHtwppycA_jSYEKt3INxmoedmXIOcQbDSr4OXP4uvxXW5CHWE9DPcUZIi093FaCcoTU_19h7Zn7jGbZFttsk-QVMfKbp9HTbx4l5w7UJVH6x8DVFEIrUSOX2zNWVXmYojfDsxQ/s640/eschernaise9.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and from the back. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKGigHlxPiAmg35U5QCBTKBxLYozKaksZ0E-1j6VYiab8x9-0lHdoXdLyfmI93gvHpNLlXQPphTdocDuZVBFtab0j4aa0Sh2Mm41tavCypsNYn-3GhePRLvoqshr_L74hYF3RADa_e3E/s1600/hummerhinten.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKGigHlxPiAmg35U5QCBTKBxLYozKaksZ0E-1j6VYiab8x9-0lHdoXdLyfmI93gvHpNLlXQPphTdocDuZVBFtab0j4aa0Sh2Mm41tavCypsNYn-3GhePRLvoqshr_L74hYF3RADa_e3E/s640/hummerhinten.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And this is the shellfish I wore underneath. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-glbFOmyi5tth8kO1dEsVZPqvPEIQi_NLmFCdctAZvcQSxZF0Twejqx-RnyABlXRwL58SLl0uZrvuZndGuGSywc0W3Ggp4VbJbooNJoblwE3jxRX36EhuDrlz8fT2hBOS1KLmuyBGYvI/s1600/hummerseite.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-glbFOmyi5tth8kO1dEsVZPqvPEIQi_NLmFCdctAZvcQSxZF0Twejqx-RnyABlXRwL58SLl0uZrvuZndGuGSywc0W3Ggp4VbJbooNJoblwE3jxRX36EhuDrlz8fT2hBOS1KLmuyBGYvI/s640/hummerseite.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"If you try to park your beer glass on my behind, I'll kill you!"</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3318997869661078453.post-39211852983501133092013-10-01T18:43:00.000+02:002013-10-01T18:43:04.205+02:00Heyho! This is going to be another costume blog! Stay around if you like, and have some tea and cookies.<br />
<br />
Meanwhile, here's a picture of what is going to happen if you get me ribbons:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeO0NO8G04CMUEY9mmi-ygv7X9fO0N7KRXfIff9OzPbQ22Tn8ybgN5uPDNtvrKR63G0zSAG-76XaU3LiLN7zDt8dYbhoVVCZf76W4vsrsptUP3Jm8g0oS_1MnSbLkFySCDAeBn2sokXc/s1600/ribbons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeO0NO8G04CMUEY9mmi-ygv7X9fO0N7KRXfIff9OzPbQ22Tn8ybgN5uPDNtvrKR63G0zSAG-76XaU3LiLN7zDt8dYbhoVVCZf76W4vsrsptUP3Jm8g0oS_1MnSbLkFySCDAeBn2sokXc/s320/ribbons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ribbons!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Stolen from <a href="http://cheezburger.com/2326702848">http://cheezburger.com/2326702848</a></span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0