Posts mit dem Label 18th century werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label 18th century werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Freitag, 16. Mai 2014

HSF '14 Challenge #9: Black and White

I finally completed another challenge!
It was an easy one - create something that is either black or white, or black and white. Click here for a detailed challenge description.

I chose to make a basic black 18th century petticoat, which is going to be part of a black fantasy 18th century outfit. The project would have been ideal for Challenge #6: Fairytale (there's always an evil fairy), but as I have to admit that the HSF is going waaaay to fast for me I'm now aiming to finish the rest for  Challenge #21: Re-Do, which is due in November.

The facts:

What the item is: a black 18th century petticoat

The Challenge: Black and White

Fabric: black polyester jacquard, I think it is actually upholstery fabric

Pattern: http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/rock.shtml

Year: 1780s-ish

Notions: thread, cotton tape

How historically accurate is it? Fabric: 0% (poly), Construction: 0% (machine sewn), Pattern: 100%, so I give it around 30%

Hours to complete: getting the pleats right took me ages, so I think about 6 hours

First worn: not yet

Total cost: all of the materials came from stash (yay!) so I don't know exactly, but I think the fabric cost me around €10



The pictures: 


Front view

Side view. I have no idea why the shape of the bum pad looks funny in this picture. It looks fine when I'm wearing it.



Back view. I like the pleats.


Did I mention I like the pleats? They turned out quite even, which makes up for the messy waistband. :P  

Mittwoch, 23. Oktober 2013

Costume recap - The Camococo

Back in 2011, a good friend had the awesome idea to make 18th century dresses out of camouflage fabric (yes, I have strange friends). As I am genetically incapable of resisting a crazy idea, of course I had to participate. Moreover, I wanted to try 18th century clothing for some time, and this was the perfect opportunity. If I got it wrong, at least I wouldn't get it wrong using expensive silk and investing hours of handstitching, right?
I quickly decided that it should be a zone front gown, and that I would use classic olive green camo fabric, combined with black poly taffeta. A huge hat should complete the ensemble.

But first - underthings! I decided to try the Diderot stays pattern from Nora Waughs "Corsets and Crinolines", and it worked like a charm.

Boobies alarm! It's incredible what these stays do to your décolleté...

Looks good, feels good. Success!
They are actually comfortable! I know, fabric is wrong, no visible boning channels wrong, metal eyelets wrong, machine stitching wrong, synthetic ribbon wrong.... but hey, the pattern is authentic! And it fits, which means I can use better materials and invest more work next time without risking that it doesn't fit after weeks of handstitching.

Now for the dress: I used an Anglaise pattern from Janet Arnolds "Patterns of Fashion" and altered the front so it would have the "zone gown" look. I decided that I wanted long sleeves, so I used a long sleeve pattern I found in Nora Waughs "The Cut of Women's clothes". For the skirt I used the tutorial at La Couturiére Parisienne and adapted it so it would fit over a bum pad. I also made a cotton petticoat with ruffles in the back to wear underneath, but I don't think the ruffles add much to the effect.

Anyway, pictures!!


The Camococo dress, complete with hair, hat, and nonsense medals I got from ebay



I'm actually not satisfied with the bum pad. It's too small.

The above two pictures were taken in Leipzig at the Wave Gotik Treffen, where I wore the dress for the first time. The hair is not at all my own hair, but an insanely curly wig, which adds a lot to the whole ensemble. 

I also made the hat from scratch - it has a buckram frame covered with black silk (yes, real silk :D ) and is decorated with organza (not silk), a metal buckle, LOTS of feathers, and a miniature aircraft carrier (which unfortunately isn't really visible on the pictures).

This year, I decided to wear the dress again to Barockfest at Schloss Hof, which is more of a carnival than a serious costume event, so I thought the dress would be appropriate. I also wore it because I don't have another 18th century dress yet, but wanted to go to Schloss Hof. However, it turned out to be the right decision, because I totally unexpected scored 3rd place at the costume contest (which I didn't even know about beforehand)! :D

I restyled the wig to look more like a "Hedgehog" which didn't work perfectly, but it's still okay with the hat ;)

Relaxing in the beautiful gardens of Schloss Hof

With my friends Eleanor Vivian (middle) and BlackAngel (right), who were both also nominated at the costume contest! Congratulations to us all! :)