Samstag, 17. Mai 2014

A Robe de Style inspired by Jeanne Lanvin (HSF '14 Challenge #2: Innovation)

After months of contemplating and cluelessly staring at the muslin I finally finished my robe de style in three days of frantic sewing, because I wanted to wear it to a special event. Of course I already knew about the event when I started the dress in November last year (!), but you know how these things go.
However, I learned that the simplest solutions are often the best, and that it would have been really smart to make the muslin out of a fabric that has a similar stand as the dress fabric. I tried numerous variations of the bodice with the muslin and wasn't satisfied with any of them, until I was forced to make a decision because my time was running out.
So I chose the easiest version. No hidden darts or any other gimmicks, no special seam placement, just a more or less fitted front and back piece that somehow resembled my inspiration dress. In the end the simple pattern turned out to work perfectly with the silk I was using, and I am very happy with the outcome.






Here you can see the inevitable fitted-but-without-darts-puckering in the back. I hated it on the muslin, but it looks a lot better with the dress fabric. I like the diamond shape :)



Yes, I should have used black snap fasteners. ;)

Where is my second foot? o.O



I like my neighbours garden gate. :)



Originally, back in November '13 when I started to work on this dress, I planned to finish it for the HSF '14 Challenge #2: Innovation. That didn't work out, but I like the HSF "fact sheet" so I'm including it here:

The Challenge: Innovation

Fabric: 4,50m black Shantung silk for the dress, a piece of cream colored silk taffeta for the neckline, fine light pink silk twill for the bodice lining

Pattern: my own

Year: 1926

Notions: black thread, hooks and eyes, snap fasteners, embroidered vintage sari border

How I historically accurate is it? Good question. I'm not sure if I already know enough about the 1920s to evaluate it correctly. I think the pattern is fairly correct. There are no darts in the bodice, and I have seen similar puckering in the back of extant pieces. The silk fabric is probably correct, although it maybe should have been silk taffeta instead of shantung. I finished the neckline and armholes with facings, no idea if that was done in the 1920s. Also no idea if anyone used vintage sari borders to embellish a dress then. The dress closes with a combination of hooks/eyes and snap fasteners, which I have seen on several extant dresses. All invisible seams are done by machine, the visible ones are done by hand (which is never wrong, I guess)
In my opinion, the overall look is coherent with the 1920s, the materials are more or less accurate, and the only thing I'm not really sure about is the general construction and the facings. I give it 70 %.

Hours to complete: ~ 35, including the patternmaking and the muslin

First worn: Boheme Sauvage Vienne, April 26th 2014

Total cost: The fabric came from stash, but I vaguely recall that I paid € 10/m, so € 45 for the black silk. I don't remember the price of the other two silks, but let's just round it up to € 50 for the whole fabric. The sari border was € 12, the fastening materials and thread came from stash. So in total I paid around € 65 for the whole dress.

By the way, Laurie from Teacups Among The Fabric had the same idea for Challenge #2, and she did get it done. I like her dress very much, especially that it is shorter in front and has a differently coloured visible lining. Also, the light pink she used is lovely on her and emphasizes the playful nature of this type of dress.

Kommentare:

  1. Oh my WOW!!! You have done a super fabulous job on your robe de style! The color of this fabric is a very luscious black and your trim is beautiful! Wonderfully done! What a great inspiration!
    Blessings!
    Gina

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    1. Thank you Gina! :) I didn't expect the black to photograph that well, but I'm glad it comes through :)

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    2. I know what you mean...black can be a very peculiar color to photograph...but this time, it totally behaved itself!

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  2. Oh you did such a great job. I adore the trim, the silk, the overall look of it. Fabulous!

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  3. A really beautiful dress, you look so elegant. And a great idea to reproduce that dress style, haven't seen it very often.
    Greetings from Switzerland, ette

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    1. Thank you ette! :)
      You look familiar, is it possible that I know you from Natron & Soda forum?

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    2. Ja! Bin Constanze im Forum. Und du? Lustig, dass ich dich dann über die HSF-Gruppe finde und nicht über's Forum. Das Internet ist eben doch kleiner als gedacht^^ lg ette

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    3. ich bin Ancalime im Forum, war früher ziemlich aktiv aber hab inzwischen schon ewig nichts mehr gepostet. Ja, witzig wie man sich wiedertrifft. :)

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  4. I love this dress! I was out of town this weekend, saw this come up in my newsfeed and couldn't wait to get home to see the details! I'm definitely partial to the Robe de Style! Thank you for the mention of my dress on my blog!
    Laurie

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    1. Aww thank you Laurie! :) I thought I'd mention your dress because I liked that you had the same idea for the challenge. There are not enough Robes de Style out there yet! :)

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  5. I would like to award you the Liebster award! You are such a wonderful inspiration! For information, look here:
    http://beauty4ashes7.blogspot.com/2014/06/liebster-award.html
    Blessings!
    Gina

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    1. I don't know what to say! Thank you so so much, now I even feel a bit famous :D
      Wow. I feel really honoured! :)

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